India is an ancient land, a mystery wrapped in an enigma with secret as yet undiscovered, a topography that has been around and seen that and an old, old soul. And yet, every so often, you come upon a place that stuns, surprises you with its sheer untouched glory, magnificent vistas and unexplored wonders. Assam, undoubtedly qualifies. There will come a time when the world stops being a place of beauty, a place with mystical, mythical, magical wonderland that renders you speechless. Where the bad may outpace the good, where life will drone on in monotony, where we will top taking pleasure in nature’s surprises… luckily that time is not now and it most certainly is not here, in Assam, the multihued cultural, geographical, historical landscapes that people this diverse state
Depending on your proclivity, Assam is different things to different people: Home to the Kaziranga National Park for the wild adventurers; a patchwork of great historical and political diversity for the history buffs, a land peppered with architectural marvels for the culturally inclined; a place of abiding spirituality for the spiritually inclined. But what Assam is to everyone is a land steeped in heritage, walking to the tune of modernity and its heart beating to the rhythms of its past.
Geography
Located in the northeast of India, Assam shares it’s borders in the North and East with the Kingdom of Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh. Along the south lies Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram. Meghalaya lies to her southwest, and Bengal and Bangladesh to her west. Assam has a unique landscape with sprawling tea gardens and unending stretches of paddy fields interspersed with groves of coconut, areca nuts, and banana trees.
Assam can be broadly divided into three distinct physical units, the Brahmaputra Valley in the north, the Barak Valley in the narrow protruding south, and the state’s hilly region separating the two valleys.
The Brahmaputra, the life-line of Assam is older than the Himalayas. The river with steep gorges and rapids in Arunachal Pradesh entering Assam, creates a flood plain, Brahmaputra Valley. The hills of Karbi Anglong, North Cacha and the Garo-Khasi hills – now eroded and dissected – are originally part of the South Indian Plateau system. The Barak Valley in the south originates in the Barail Range at the Assam-Nagaland border runs through the Cachar district, all the way into Bangladesh, where it is known as Surma.
Climate
The summers are hot and humid at 35°C–38°C and the winters are chilly at 6°C–8°C. The state experiences heavy rainfall and high humidity. The climate is characterised by heavy downpours. Thunder storms known asbordoicila are frequent during the afternoons. The month of March to April and September to October are usually pleasant with moderate rainfall and temperature.
The region is prone to natural disasters with annual floods and frequent mild earthquakes. Strong earthquakes though, are rare.
History
The first references to Assam are epic – literally. The epics and religious legends which are part of Indian culture mentioned the state in it ancient incarnation. There are several place mentioned in the epic tome, theMahabharata, which bear a startling resemblance to current sites in this state.
Known as ‘Kamarupa’ or ‘Pragjyotish’ in these epics, Assam is believed to be inhabited by human civilisation since about 2,000 BC, probably around the time that the Aryans found their way into Assam. Subsequently, there was large-scale Mongoloid migration, with people coming from Burma and China, crossing into Assam from Punjab through Bihar and North Bengal.
Henceforth, Assam presents a blend of Mongol-Aryan culture. It is believed that the early history of Assam is dominated by the Varman dynasty, which ruled from 400 AD to 13th century AD. Many dynasties ruled after the Varmans before succumbing to the first wave of Mughal invasions in 1228. During the second invasion by Ikhtiyaruddin Yuzbak or Tughril Khan, about 1257 AD, the king of Kamrupa Saindhya transferred the capital ‘Kamrup Nagar’ to Kamatapur in the west. From then onwards, Kamata’s ruler was called Kamateshwar. During the last part of 14th century, Arimatta was the ruler of Gaur (the northern region of former Kamatapur) who had his capital at Vaidyagar. And after the invasion of the Mughals in the 15th century many Muslims settled in this state and can be said to be the first Muslim settlers of this region.
Huien Tsang is said to have visited Assam during the rule of Kumar Bhaskar Varman in 7th century BC. The Ahoms are said to have ventured into Assam in about 1228 AD. By 15th century, the kingdoms of Ahom and Koch were established. This period witnessed a change in the cultural, social, economic and political ethos of Assam.
The Ahom kingdom grew weak by the latter half of the 18th century due to internal conflict. The Burmese overran political authority in Assam, leading to Britsh intervention, which pushed them out. After this conflict, peace was reestablished by the signing of the treaty of Yandaboo in 1826. The British then set out to organise the administration, transport and communication in Assam. It was the Britih who introduced tea plantation in the state and discovered of coal and oil. After India gained independence, Assam witnessed several separation of territories. In 1948, NEFA (Arunachal Pradesh) was separated. In 1963 Nagaland was separated. In 1972 Meghalaya and in 1987 Mizoram.
Political History
Before the Ahom invasions between the 13th and 15th centuries, much of today’s Assam was ruled from Dimapur (now attached to Nagaland) by the Kachari-Dimasa dynasty. The Chutiaya (Deori-Bodo) kingdom was an important force further west. Towards the 20th century, with the influence of the Dimasas and Bodos on the wane, leading to a more inward-looking attitude to protect their own ethnicities. The result was a major Bodo insurgency that was only settled in 2004–05 with the creation of a partially self-governing ‘Bodoland’ in northwestern Assam. In the Cachar Hills around Haflong, the Dimasas continue a violent campaign for autonomy.
However, while the struggle for identity and perceived dilution of the same may make Asssam a hotbed of political unrest, let that not be a hindrance to your visits to this magnificent land. For the most part, Assam is delightful, hospitable and deeply civilised. Its national parks protect a remarkable range of wildlife. And don’t miss the delicious Assamese food: fruity, mild and finely pH-balanced using a unique banana-alkaline extract called khar.
People
Its population is a confluence of streams of different races and tribes like the Austrics, the Aryans, Negroids, Indo-Burmese, Indo-Tibetans and Mongoloids. They have enriched each other and have evolved to give a distinctive identity to the Assamese people.
The Assamese population can be divided into two broad groups : the non-tribal people who constitute the majority and the tribals. The Australoids were the first to arrive here, then the Mongoloids, came in a series of migrations from the north, north-east and south-east; and the Caucasoids who came from the west by the valley formed by the Ganges and the Brahmaputra.
Today, the people of the State can be broadly identified and classified as the Non-Tribals or the Plains People. The people of the plains, by virtue of their nomenclature, generally live in the plains and the tribals mainly live in the hills. Though Assam has a valuable tribal population in the plains too.
The state is peopled by a large number of tribal groups; major among them being the Boro-Kacharis, the Deori, the Misings, the Dimassas, the Karbis, the Lalungs, the Rabhas. Ahkhomiya or Assamese is the language of Assam.
Assam is very much a part of India, but the culture is proudly distinct. The people follow a ‘neo-Vaishnavite’ faith, which has taken on the proportions of being a ‘state’ religion. The men, during time of worship or prayer, don a gamosa (a red-and-white embroidered scarf) which has become a ‘state’ costume. Despite similarities between Bengali and Assamese alphabets, the Assamese people, culture, language or religion should not be clubbed together with that of the Bengali – it is a contentious issue compounded by the influx of Bengali migrants to the state.
But whatever be their name, tribe, lineage or family, the Assamese folk are all warm hospitable, charming and openhearted.
An important aspect of Assam is that it is one of the richest biodiversity zones in the world. It consists of tropical rainforests, deciduous forests, riverine grasslands, bamboo orchards and numerous wetland ecosystems. Many are now protected as national parks and reserved forests.
The Kaziranga National Park and Manas are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Assam. The state is the last refuge for numerous other endangered species such as the Golden langur, white-winged wood duck and deohanh, the Bengal florican, black-breasted parrotbill, pygmy dog, greater adjutant and so on. Some other endangered species with significant populations in Assam are the tiger, elephant, hoolock gibbon, Jerdon’s babbler to name a few. The state has the largest population of the Wild Water Buffalo in the world, and it also has the highest diversity of birds in India with around 820 species.
The typical Assamese landscape offers mesmerising vistas over endless gold-green rice fields patched with palm and bamboo groves. In between are equally endless manicured tea estates. Assam’s tea estates are virtually flat and take their particular scenic splendour from the dappled shade of intermittently planted Acacia trees that shield sensitive tea leaves from the sun. It is a land that is equally loved by the four-legged variety as well, with spectacular fauna calling it home – the Kaziranga National Park is home to some exotic creatures, including the rare one-horned rhinoceros. This is multi-hued cultures coexisting together in peace, just as God probably wanted at the beginning of time.
By Air
The Lokapriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport of Guwahati is well connected by air to most of the metros in India. There are regular flights to Guwahati running all year long on daily basis. Druk Air operates a weekly flight to Bangkok.
Most of the carriers also operate flights connecting the other towns of Assam like Jorhat, Dibrugarh, Tezpur and Silchar to Guwahati and to the other major cities in India.
By Rail
A convenient railways network connects Assam to all major cities in India such as Kolkata, New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Cochin and Trivandrum.
By Road
Guwahati, the largest city in Northeast India, is the hub of the road network to the northeastern region. A good network of National Highways and other roads connect Assam to all the prime cities of India.
By Road
Assam State Transport Corporation and other privately run tourist bus services offer a good network of bus routes throughout the state covering all the cities and towns of the state. They also ply to the capital cities of the neighbouring northeastern states.
Luxury buses and cars are also available for hire at reasonable prices. Private taxis and auto rickshaws are perfect for covering short distances within the towns.
By Rail
The Indian railways network connects the major towns of Assam to Guwahati, and to the rest of India. There are several new and fast trains operating effectively.
Assam’s beautiful rice fields look their emerald best in October. However, the national parks rarely open before November and, even then, the state’s iconic rhinoceroses will be hard to spot amid the towering grasses. These grasses have burnt off by February, but by that stage the plains will have turned a relatively drab brown.
Assam is a melting pot where cultures, heritages, traditions, lifestyles, faiths and beliefs of her diverse peoples, serve up a fascinating and exotic recipe of delightful flavour. The culture of Assam is a rich fabric of these diverse influences.
A fact evidenced best in its colourful festivals at once blazing, compelling and mesmerizing. Most of the festivals celebrated in Assam have their root in the varied faith and belief of its people. Apart from the religious and national festivals observed throughout India, Assam also has a large number of colourful festivals of its own.
Bihu, the agricultural festival of Assam is celebrated by all. There are three Bihus celebrated at different points during cultivation – Bahag (Baisakh) Bihu, Kati (Kartika) Bihu and Magh (Magha) Bihu.
In addition to all this, the tribals of Assam have their own colourful festivals:
- The Kherai Puja of the Bodos
- The Baikhu and Pharkantis of the Rabhas
- Ali-ai-ligang and Prag by the Missing tribe
- The Sagra-misawa wansawa and laghun by the Tiwas.
- The Ahomes of Tai origin celebrate Me-Dem-Mehfi.
- The Ojapali dances of Non-Vaishnavite origin are usually associated with Manasa – the Serpent Goddess.
- Bathow celebrated by the kacharis through sacrifice of goates and chickens.
- The Dimasas celebrate Rangi Gobr and Harni gobra at the start of the cropping cycle.
- The Deoris observe Bohagiya visu- the Spring time festival.
- Ambubasi Mela is held during monsoon at the famous Kamakhya Temple.
- Jonbeel Mela is held every year during winter at Jonbeel. The festival is celebrated by the tribes like Tiwa, Karbi, Khasi, Jaintia etc.
Arts and Crafts of Assam
There is something truly magical of local art here, a product of beautiful simplicity and uncommon sophistication. Though Assam is renowned for its exquisite silks, bamboo and cane products, several other crafts are also made here. The colourful Assamese japi (headgear), terracotta of Gauripur and various decorative items bear witness to the craftsmanship of this land. Assam handloom is noteworthy with its mosaic of colours and contours with pleasing motifs and designs. Eri, muga (Assamese silk dresses) are typical tribal attire worn to this day.
Dance, music, woodwork, pottery, sitalpati or the art of mat-making have survived through centuries with few changes. Modernity may have changed – even improved – the lifestyle of the tribals, but the arts and crafts, and their technique of production, has remained almost as unadulterated as when it was first discovered. In these crafts is hidden the history of the state.