It is the seat of a legend, a place that is at the epicentre of some real-life drama, tragedy, despair and hope. All of which is made all the immediate because it has happened in the lifetime of today’s generation – old and young. It is the place that has spawned a thousand legends, all true, all real and all heart-rending. Dharamsala is to the world, the place that His Holiness the Dalai Lama calls home, albeit a home in exile. This hill station lying on the spur of the Dhauladhar range may have a soul-stirring story that has made it an enigmatic destination inexorably drawing hordes of visitors, but its magic can only be felt, it cannot be explained and it cannot be imagined. And of course, it helps that the setting for the unravelling and discovering of this place that The Dalai Lama calls home is, in a word, perfect. Wooded with oak and conifer trees, enfolded by snow-capped mountains on three sides with a vast endless valley stretching out in front, Dharamsala is the stuff of picture-perfect beauty. Dharamsala is also the headquarters of the Kangra district.
Though it wasn’t always so. A devastating earthquake in 1905 completely destroyed the town. It was only after its reconstruction that Dharamsala flourished as a quiet health resort. In 1960, when it became a temporary headquarter of His Holiness The Dalai Lama, Dharamsala has risen to international fame as ‘The Little Lhasa in India’. It is a privilege that the little town wears ever so modestly.
Sights To See
McLeod Ganj
A number of residential buildings, restaurants, antique and curio shops, together with famous Tibetan institutions have lent importance to McLeod Ganj. The Buddha temple is situated opposite the present abode of His Holiness, the Dalai Lama and is worth a visit. There is also a Tibetan handicraft centre here and a Sunday market is organised at about 10 minutes walk from here. The Peak Art Gallery is also worth a look see.
Tsuglagkhang Complex
This is the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet, and it has a large meditation hall containing some beautiful statues and thangkas (Tibetan paintings), as well as a Kalachakra temple with beautiful murals. It is also the monastery of The Dalai Lama, and is located just in front of his residence.
17th Karmapa (The Dalai Lama’s alternative residence)
A visit here would most definitely be on any traveller’s agenda. While His Holiness is busy travelling around but in case you visit when he’s here, he has a temporary residence is at the Gyuto Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near McLeod Ganj.
War Memorial
Set amidst beautiful surroundings, the war memorial is built near the entry point to Dharamsala to commemorate the memory of those who fought valiantly for the defence of the Motherland. Three huge panels of black marble are etched with the names of the martyrs who laid down their lives guarding the motherland in the operations of 1947-48, 1962, 1965, 1971 and in various peacekeeping missions.
Naam Art Gallery Permanent
Visit here to view an exhibition of watercolours and acrylic paintings by Elizabeth Buschmann and oil paintings by Alfred W Hallett.
Tibet Museum
For a lowdown on the history of Tibet and its people, this small museum is definitely worth a dekko.
Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA)
Walking distance from McLeod Ganj, this institute hosts stage performances of traditional Tibetan dance, music and theatre. It holds an annual 10-day folk opera commencing on the second Saturday of April.
Kunal Pathari
Around 3 km from Dharamsala is this temple which is a popular pilgrim spot for many. Locals come to pray to the goddess here every day.
The Himachal Pradesh Cricket Stadium
Facing the mighty Dhauladhar range, this cricket stadium has the honour of being the only one situated at a height of 1,457 m (4,780 ft 2 in) above sea level, with snow-capped mountains as the backdrop.
Dharamkot
Around 14 km from, this is an ideal place for a picnic, with the Himalayan mountain range as an amazing background.
Excursions
Trekking/walking
The snowline is perhaps more easily accessible at Dharamsala than at any other hill resort and it is possible to make a day’s trek to a snow-point after an early-morning start.
Bhagsu Waterfall
Three km from Dharamsala, this waterfall is an easy walk down Bhagsu Road through the village of the same name, then one km up to the waterfall itself. Despite a sign advising visitors not to venture further, the path to the waterfall is in reasonable shape, except for the final 50 m which are distinctly dodgy, especially in slippery weather. Be careful if you decide to take a bath in the upper pools of the waterfall – there may be shards of glass in the water.
Dal Lake
Four km from Dharamsala, the lake gets its name from the color and texture of its water, a distinct reminder of its yellow lentil namesake.
Indrahar Pass
This pass carves a path through the snowbound Dhauladhar range in the Kangra valley. This trek ends at Lamu.
Triund
If you are in for a brisk walk, climb the hill beyond Dharamkot to Triund to soak up the stunning view of the first peaks of the Himalayas and a wide view over the plains. As the peak is 2,875 m, make sure to wear good shoes, carry water, some food if you and an extra vest or coat to be prepared for the capricious weather.
Trek to the Guna Temple
This is the perfect trek to help you warm up for Triund. This is a 5-km trek through a jungle is quite a climb.
Kangra Fort
The torrential Banganga river deep in the valley forming a formidable sheer and the Kangra Fort lurking atop the flat mountain range is a scene that one encounters on nearing Kangra town when you drive from Shimla-Mataur national highway. About 17 km from Dharamsala, the Kangra Fort is historically significant; its massive size, and the beauty of its structure lend it an added charm. At the entrance is a museum containing some valuable old photographs of the fort prior to the devastating earthquake of 1905 and some exquisite stone sculptures, carvings, idols and other artefacts. The climb leads through seven gates; en route there are some idols embossed in the walls of the fort; the ramparts open out to the fascinating valleys. There are three richly carved temples in the vicinity. The Kangra Fort was the seat of power of the Katoch kings and is believed to have been founded by Shusharma Chand Katoch. It was the ancient capital of the Katoch kingdom. The fort remained neglected during the British period but now the Archaeological department maintains it.
Getting There
By Air: The nearest airport at Gaggal is 14 km away. From there, Dharamsala is accessible by road.
By Rail: Pathankot is the nearest railhead to Dharamsala. From Pathankot there is a narrow gauge railway line up to Kangra (94 km) and from here Dharamsala is 17 km by road.
By Road: There is a direct and regular bus service from Delhi (520 km), Chandigarh (250 km), Jammu (210 km), Shimla (238 km), Chamba (185 km) and Manali (240 km).
Get Around
McLeod Ganj is small enough to be navigated on foot. Public buses to Dharamsala leave roughly hourly. Chartered auto-rickshaws are also available.