Goa is like a second home to me. Having lived, studied and visited Goa many a time in the last 20 years, I thought I knew it like the back of my hand. But even this little jewel of a state was capable of springing surprises, as I discovered on my most recent trip to stay at Olaulim Backyards. As Pirkko, the owner of the resort, drove me from the suburbs of Porvorim, I was surprised at the small village roads that led to Olaulim – all wide-open fields and compact village homes that finally led to the ’other’ side of the Mandovi River. It may be the smallest state in India, but discovering new facets of Goa is a work in progress each time you visit.

As I walked into the property, it was apparent why the Fernandez family made this their home, and have now extended their hospitality to others – the river flows right into their backyard! The main house was restored from a dreary place to a charming home, comfortable for the kids and the family pets. Slowly, the family built more cottages to extend their hospitality to guests and provide options for those looking to stay away from the beaches.

The cottages are built with local materials and are rustic, earthy yet comfortable. In two cottages, they have retained the rock formations within the rooms. Local artists have added an element of sophisticated earth design to the rooms. The bathrooms are an extension of the natural surroundings with bamboo walls and open showers revealing up to the sky.

The owners' respect for nature is evident in the steps they have taken to minimise the property's carbon footprint. There is a concerted effort to reduce the use of plastic, with double-filtered water being offered to guests. The water used in the rooms is reused for the manicured grass and  use of electricity is kept to a minimum – with a horse and donkey, who needs a land mower!