Once again, the Neemrana partners have outdone themselves with their excellent location hunting. This building was built in 1507 and both St. Francis and Vasco de Gama have actually lived in this house. It is right next door to the St Francis Church which incidentally used to have the remains of Vasco de Gama before they were moved to Portugal sometime in this century itself – you can still have a peak at his tombstone though!
The house is grand, large and very luxuriant. The eight roomed hotel is fille diwth antiques and museum quality art relating to India’s colonial history. Most prominent are the priceless photographs (original) of Nehru sharing a laugh with Lady Mountbatten (whom he was rumoured to be having an affair with) as well as a large portrait photograph of him in the dining area.
The rooms are very luxurious, with marble bathrooms and large beds. In fact, the hotel is quite a departure from typical Neemrana properties, which are usually a little less understated. The hotel is also a private home, so I think the owners might have something to do with the opulent décor. The hotel seems more fitted to a business trip than a languid break in Cochin. The prices are so steep, only corporate expense accounts will be able afford it! They also Wi-fi which will add to their business hotel credentials.
There is a beautiful, though quite small outdoor swimming pool with some very comfortable deck chairs and a lot of greenery to keep the harsh Kerala sun at bay.
Though it doesn’t feel like an eco friendly hotel at all, they do have solar panels and the trademark Neemrana signs asking you to conserve water. Also, one of the rooms – the Tipu Sultan, has been made for the ‘differently– abled’ which is a very welcome sign. The hotel is also pet- friendly and can be hired out as a whole for a tidy packet. So, if you have the cash, come with your family and the dog and luxuriate to your hearts content!
Stay
The rooms are very luxurious, with marble bathrooms and large beds. The suites take the cake, of course with large verandas attached. The second-floor Jan van Spall Suite, named after the last Dutch governor of Cochin, has a veranda and the best view, with the swimming pool in front of it and the sea in the distance.
The Tipu Sultan room has been specially designed for the differently abled – hopefully a sign of how much Indian hotels have evolved. The rooms are well dispersed around the house and though some are smaller than others – there isn’t a ‘bad’ room in the house. The décor is a little different from other Neemrana properties – in that the rooms are a little more ‘lush’ . There is silk used in the bed linen and opulent bedside lamps – with gold gilt edging and large portraits of old duchesses and dukes looking down at you.
Come here to be pampered!
Dine
The food here is typical Neemrana fare – abundant breakfasts with their trademark jams from their farms in the North, excellent bread, eggs to order and some of the best coffee in India. Meals are a mix of their Creole fare (prawns in saffron sauce), European and some honest to goodness Kerala food.
There is a plethora of activities available, most owing to its excellent location in the heart of Fort Kochi, a delightful part of Cochin and a great place to discover its history. There are bicycles that you can borrow or you could take a leisurely historic walk of the area. Make sure to take in Mattancherry, home to 14 distinct communities, and a maze of markets, temples, churches, mosques and the fabled 16th century synagogue. The warehouses of the old spice market have become India’s biggest market for antiques, artefacts and collectibles, a fabulous place to browse and discover. Don’t miss the unusual Chinese cantilevered fishing nets on the quay right opposite the hotel. Sun sets here are famous.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous you could take a day trip on the backwaters of Kerala . If you don’t feel like leaving the cosy environs of the hotel, a masseuse will be arranged, there is free WiFi throughout, and a beautiful, very private pool in the courtyard.
The hotel, though very opulent, ticks the same boxes that all Neemrana properties do. They use solar panels for heating and have large signs explaining the need to conserve water in all rooms. Their male to female ratio is very high – with a woman as their General Manager.
What’s Hot!
- The house is excellently located – right in the heart of Fort Cochin but tucked away on a small road with no traffic.
- Very luxuriant. You might not end up going anywhere!
What’s Not!
- The hotel doesn’t have a liquor license because it’s right next door to the Church!
Ideal For Whom
The business traveller who has brought his family and wants to mix business with some pleasure and a lot of style! Romantic couples will love it as well. This is also one of the few hotels to have special arrangements for the disabled.
When To Visit
October to January is the best time to visit, as the heat is less intense (max. of 30°C and min. of 18°C). Summer, from February until May gets quite hot – (max of 35°C and 23°C min). Monsoon runs from June until September (max. of 32°C and min. of 20°C), when prices are reduced.
How Many Days
Three or four nights is ideal here – enough to take in the major sights and enjoy the hotel to its maximum. However, a shorter stop will be well worth it as well.
Things To Bring
Mosquito repellent and wrist- and ankle-covering layers are a must in Kerala and particularly at Le Colonial – especially if you plan to sit by the swimming pool in the terrace restaurant. Loose linen trousers and dresses for dining will be nice. A camera, a wide hat and an extra bag will come to use when you realise how much shopping there is to be done here!
Le Colonial is in the heart of historical Fort Cochin, right next to St. Francis Church and a 3 minutes walk to the Chinese fishing nets.
By Air:
The closest airport is in Cochin (45 km / 90 minutes). Served by numerous airlines from Europe, the Middle East and Australia, as well as connecting flights from Mumbai (Bombay), Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad and Colombo. Kerala’s other international airport, Trivandrum, is 200 km south of Cochin.
From & To the Airport
The hotel offers transfers from Cochin Airport. Alternatively, it’s easy to book a pre-paid taxi from one of the airport counters inside the concourse. Do remember that traffic on the airport road can get heavy, so plan on delays.
By Train:
If you’re in India already, you can catch a train to Ernakulam Junction from most destinations. From there, ask the hotel for a pre-booked transfer.
By Car:
Fort Cochin is the southernmost enclave of the Ernakulam-Cochin metropolitan area. It is easily accessible from other parts of Kerala.
Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg first came upon their flagship property – the Neemrana Fort (after which they named their company) while researching the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan for a book. Aman Nath was a renowned historian and author, and Francis was a French diplomat who fell in love with the cultural heritage of India. So much so, that he settled in the country way back in the 1970’s. Their combined love for architecture, design and history made them buy the fort on an impulse…and the rest is history.
The Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ chain was started and the duo still continue to charm travellers with their excellent knack for location hunting and finding beautiful buildings that are lovingly restored by them. They now have fifteen properties scattered around the country, ranging from the 14th century to the 21st. They are stringent about staying true to the cultural roots of their buildings, and the properties definitely make you feel like they were restored for the pure love of it. They claim that they have no commercial interest in the hotels, and it shows!
The Neemrana properties are called ‘non-hotels’ because of the feeling they project that the house has just been left behind by the family that owned it, complete with the furniture and art and the little knick knacks that make a home.
“The bathrooms are sumptuous, with top-quality fixtures and fine art on the walls. Meals can be taken in the shaded walled garden overlooking the small pool or in the formal dining room. The public rooms are resplendent with invaluable colonial-era art, including seventeenth-century Dutch oil paintings…” Conde Nast, Hot List 2008
