Though it’s the newest kid on the block, the Tower House manages to hold its own amongst the plethora of beautiful heritage hotels that litter Fort Cochin. Its charm lies in the fact that it doesn’t try too hard, it’s much understated and it feels like you are visiting the grand ancestral house of a friend who has given you the keys.
The décor is simpler than most of their other hotels, but it kind of adds to the charm. The house is white washed to perfection with intricate plaster-of-Paris work on the ceilings and doors. There are large arched windows that overlook the sea or the very beautiful Old Harbour Hotel next door (also on our website!) and secret verandas and porches waiting to be discovered through out the house. The ‘living room’ of the house is large but still manages to be cosy, almost begging you to come out of your room and lounge there – a feat that most hotels are not able to achieve.
The rooms are extremely large with very high ceilings – but it doesn’t feel vacant or old fashioned. Perfect for the steamy, still afternoons in Cochin those threaten to never end. The rooms will keep you cocooned in the coolness afforded by the high ceilings, white walls and the muted light from the windows.
The location (like all Neemrana ‘non-hotels’) is excellent – right opposite the Chinese fishing nets and in the heart of Fort Kochi, perfect to get out and about on foot and explore the tiny by lanes, now filled with art galleries and charming cafes.
Stay
The floors are wooden and the rooms feel airy and comfortable. The bathrooms are full of windows – letting in light and most have huge bathtubs to relax in. There are comfortable chairs by the windows looking out to the insides of the large rain trees that Fort Cochin is famous for (some of them older than the buildings!). The bathrooms are large with a lot of light coming in from the windows. They are simple but large bathrooms in black and white with a large bathtub that has a window looking out to the trees or the sea, depending on which room you get. The rooms are so big that one will be perfect for a family.
Dine
Only breakfast is available at the Tower House at the time I visited. Breakfast was abundant with the trademark Neemrana jams from their farms in the North, excellent bread, eggs to order and some of the best coffee in India.
There is a plethora of activities available, most owing to the hotels excellent location in the heart of Fort Kochi, a delightful part of Cochin and a great place to discover its history. There are bicycles that you can borrow or you could take a leisurely historic walk of the area. Make sure to take in Mattancherry, home to 14 distinct communities, and a maze of markets, temples, churches, mosques and the fabled 16th century synagogue. The warehouses of the old spice market have become India’s biggest market for antiques, artefacts and collectibles, a fabulous place to browse and discover. Don’t miss the unusual Chinese cantilevered fishing nets on the quay right opposite the hotel. Sun sets here are famous.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous you could take a day trip on the backwaters of Kerala. If you don’t feel like leaving the cosy environs of the hotel, a masseuse will be arranged, and there are plenty of interesting nooks and corners for you to settle down with a good book.
Of course first and foremost, this house is an ancient monument that has been totally restored and resurrected by the Neemrana duo. The hotel is also very stringent about putting up signs in the bathrooms and rooms to let guests know about the importance of saving water and caring for the environment. A sign in my room had a detailed list of the amount of water used for showering or brushing your teeth and the ways in which you can save water while doing these things. Every Neemrana bathroom has a bucket and mug provided if you decide to have a bucket bath instead of a shower, which will save you almost 90 litres a day!
They use only cotton and natural materials as linen, and have a request for every guest in his room to reuse towels to save water. The staff is also trained to reduce wastage as much as possible. Bathrooms are designed with water saving fittings. CFL bulbs are used in the rooms and through out the hotel. Food either comes from their own organic farms or from the local market.
What’s Hot!
- The rooms are huge, some with enough space for 4 and it is all included in the price – making it one of the most economically viable heritage hotels in Cochin.
- The house is exquisitely decorated.
- Excellent location right in front of the Chinese nets in the heart of Fort Cochin.
What’s Not!
- Strangely, there is a central air-conditioning system in the hotel, which was not properly functioning during my stay.
Ideal For Whom
Families and large groups will enjoy this hotel the most. It is large enough to accommodate many without feeling cramped. It is too large and airy to feel romantic, but couples who have come to see Fort Cochin will not be disappointed.
When To Visit
October to January is the best time to visit, as the heat is less intense (max. of 30°C and min. of 18°C). Summer, from February until May gets quite hot – (max of 35°C and 23°C min). Monsoon runs from June until September (max. of 32°C and min. of 20°C), when prices are reduced.
How Many Days
Two or three nights is ideal here – enough to take in the major sights and enjoy the hotel to its maximum. However, a shorter stop will be well worth it as well.
Things To Bring
Mosquito repellent and wrist-and ankle-covering layers are a must in Kerala. Loose linen trousers and dresses for dining will be nice. A camera, a wide hat and an extra bag will come in use when you realise how much shopping there is to be done here!
The Tower House is in the heart of historical Fort Cochin, on the famed Tower Road opposite the Chinese fishing nets, right next door to the Old Harbour Hotel.
By Air:
The closest airport is in Cochin (45 km / 90 minutes). Served by numerous airlines from Europe, the Middle East and Australia, as well as connecting flights from Mumbai (Bombay), Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad and Colombo. Kerala’s other international airport, Trivandrum, is 200 km south of Cochin.
From & To the Airport
The hotel offers transfers from Cochin Airport. Alternatively, it’s easy to book a pre-paid taxi from one of the airport counters inside the concourse. Do remember that traffic on the airport road can get heavy, so plan on delays.
By Train:
If you’re in India already, you can catch a train to Ernakulam Junction from most destinations. From there, ask the hotel for a pre-booked transfer.
By Car:
Fort Cochin is the southernmost enclave of the Ernakulam-Cochin metropolitan area. It is easily accessible from other parts of Kerala.
Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg first came upon their flagship property – the Neemrana Fort (after which they named their company) while researching the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan for a book. Aman Nath was a renowned historian and author, and Francis was a French diplomat who fell in love with the cultural heritage of India. So much so, that he settled in the country way back in the 1970’s. Their combined love for architecture, design and history made them buy the fort on an impulse…and the rest is history.
The Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ chain was started and the duo still continue to charm travellers with their excellent knack for location hunting and finding beautiful buildings that are lovingly restored by them. They now have fifteen properties scattered around the country, ranging from the 14th century to the 21st. They are stringent about staying true to the cultural roots of their buildings, and the properties definitely make you feel like they were restored for the pure love of it. They claim that they have no commercial interest in the hotels, and it shows!
The Neemrana properties are called ‘non-hotels’ because of the feeling they project that the house has just been left behind by the family that owned it, complete with the furniture and art and the little knick knacks that make a home.
