The Beaches of North Goa – Anjuna/Calangute/Baga/Vagator
Calangute and Baga are now where all the action takes place. Maybe a little too much action! The sands are still as golden and the waters, warm. But now you’ll be sharing space with thousands of Indian tourists along with a very healthy dose of Brits and Scandanavians on a beach choc – o – bloc with jet skis, paragliding, speedboats and more sunbeds than there is place to walk! Still, the area is the best place to come for a good night out.
Though Anjuna still attracts its share of hippies and free spirits; it is increasingly becoming home to writers and artists who simple like the vibe as well as some excellent cafes and restaurants. Unfortunately, in recent years, the beach has become virtually unswimmable. Just north of Anjuna is Vagator – a beautiful swimming spot dramatically situated under the ramparts of Chapora Fort. The fort was mughal enterprise that was interestingly rebuilt by the Portuguese at the turn of the 18th century. The fort is crumbling but the views are excellent, with the Arabian Sea on one hand and the Chapora River on the other. Easily the best sunset spot in Goa.
Calangute and Baga is where you come to when you are in the mood to dance under a disco light. There is Bollywood at Tito’s – Baga’s first nightclub, hip-hop and house at Mambo’s, progressive lounge at Kamasutra and live music and retro at Cavala.
Even the staunch anti-development tourists that normally shun the Calangute-Baga stretch end up coming here at least once for a meal. Baga creek has J & A’s Little Italy which has been consistently good amongst a steady chain of restaurants that only last a season. On the same stretch is Lila Café – a German café with fresh German bread, water-buffalo ham and excellent mushroom pate. Britto’s is a Baga institution that serves decent Goan cuisine – their seafood platter is famous through out the country. Fiesta is a beautifully decorated restaurant with wood fire ovens and to die for desserts. Calangute also has whatis arguably the world’s best Burmese restaurant – Bomras. Perfect for a date!
In comparison, the restaurants and bars in Anjuna and Vagator are much more relaxed, decidedly hippy and often, organic! Blue Tao was one of the first wholly organic restaurants in India. The German Bakery at Anjuna is also excellent and has some great health foods and most of the menu is organic as well. Curlies by the beach in Anjuna is an institution for its lax rules (on everything) and location (right on the beach). In recent years Anjuna has also got its own share of fine-dining restaurants – the best of which is Sublime, where the steaks are great and the wibe lists are long!
No trip to Goa will be complete without a visit to the sprawling Wednesday flea market held on the shores of Anjuna beach. Here you could anything from a bikini to spices to Ayurvedic medicine to sushi to a tattoo…the list is endless. Look and you will find.