Goa is the Promised Land. Here, all your dreams will come true. Some people say it’s the location, some the food, and some talk eloquently of its geo-magnetic energies that keep bringing you back to its fold and never fail to put a smile on your face. I would say it’s the beautiful beaches, the warm, safe waters, the excellent food and drink and a culture that’s so multifarious and mixed there is something for everyone.
Like most of India, Goa accepts its many invaders and influences instead of fighting change. The Hindus and later the Muslims were the first to leave their mark on this idyllic beach state. Not many know of Goa’s rich temple heritage. But even these temples are unlike others in the rest of the country – influenced by the Marathas and even the Muslims; they have a unique architecture of their own. However, it was the invasion of the Portuguese that left the biggest mark on Goa. The harsh Inquisition and the rigid mercenary attitude of the rulers destroyed many of the temples and Hindu heritage of Goa.
Beautiful churches, large Portuguese mansions and Latin Quarters came up, but the attitude of the Goans and their way of life remained the same. They now went to Church instead of a temple – but their relaxed, carefree attitude stayed. And perhaps this is what makes Goa so much fun. Unlike other parts of India, you can truly relax here knowing that you won’t be offending anyone’s sensibilities. When the Portuguese left and the hippies on the famous Magic Bus landed in Goa, the Goans once again allowed them into their fold. Bamboo huts and yoga centres opened up. There were organic farms and acid parties and yet the Goans continued with their siestas.
In 1985, the first charter flight from UK changed everything once again. The chartered flights brought with them a need for bigger hotels, luxury hideaways, world class food and a more professional attitude towards tourism. Now there are backpackers, package tourists and domestic travellers alike. Nevertheless, till now, tourism in Goa has focussed on the coastal belt alone, leaving the rest of the state relatively untouched.
So now Goa can be anyone’s paradise. A beach holiday can be spent in a huge luxury hotel, a beautiful Portuguese villa or a simple bamboo hut; you can visit Hindu temples in the jungle, or walk around the quaint lanes of Panjim’s Latin Quarter. From heritage hotels to wildlife lodges there is something for everyone. Goa will be there welcoming you with her open arms. Take care of her and you can enjoy her for ever.
Geography & History
Tucked away on the west coast of the India, this small state is in such contrast from its neighbours, that it might as well have been a separate country. Coming down south from Bombay or the north, you will be struck by its gentle natural luxury – the kind that allows you a good night’s sleep under a coconut tree by the sea. And if you’re coming up from the south of India, you’ll be struck by how international it is – Europeans and Goans work, live and play together in an ancient culture that’s part Hindu and part Portuguese and now very global.
In Goa, it’s all about its beaches; a 100 km stretch of undeterred coastline makes it the beach destination of the country. But there is more to it than that – in the east, lie the Western Ghats, part of it plundered by the iron ore mining which is Goa’s main industry and part of it protected reserves and forests with great bio-diversity where animals like the tiger and wild elephant still roam freely. In between are acres and acres of spice, fruit and areca nut plantations.
In Goa all these contrasts come together in perfect harmony – and they must, for she has been practicing the art of welcoming foreigners into her open arms for way, way longer than people would care to remember. From 2400 BC when the Aryans first came to Goa from the North (bringing with them the first beginnings of Hinduism) to the Muslim rule of the Bahmanis in the 14th century to the grand arrival of the Portuguese in 1510 – Goa has seen everything, from the Inquisition, to the Portuguese fighting Indian troops as recently as the 1950’s to the current ‘Free Goa’ movement that has taken hold of the imagination of its youth. Still, it is one of the few states in the country to be completely unaffected by any communal riots. Goa takes it all in and infuses it with ‘susegad’ (quiet).
People, Culture & Climate
No writing on Goa can be complete without the mention of this word. It comes from the Portuguese word socegado which literally means ‘quiet’, though in its current form as ‘susegad’, it is more a state of being – a way of life that is central to the culture of Goa. To ‘relax and enjoy life while you can’ or maybe it is ‘taking it easy’. It is different things to different people, but it ultimately ends up in sitting down under which ever coconut tree you happen to be under, striking up a conversation with the person closest to you and generally spending some time forgetting about your worries. Ah, Goa!
It must be the weather. There are maybe three months in the year when it gets unbearably hot. The sea breeze never ends though and if you stay indoors during the afternoons, you might not even notice. Goans, typically, picked up on the concept of a ‘siesta’ surprisingly fast! The rest of the year Goa basks in a beautiful temperate climate that makes hanging out on the beach a pleasure during the day with just a bit of a nip in the air at night. During the monsoon, of course, it all changes – but being Goa, it’s only for the better. Ok, so maybe you can’t go to the beach, but Goa transforms into some kind of prehistoric tropical jungle that is lush, green and very intoxicating.
All in all, Goans know how to live life well. They are a happy, peaceful people that are aware of the role tourism plays in their life and are ready to accommodate different ways of thinking or cultures. They might not agree with you but they will be tolerant.
Or maybe it’s the food. Most find it hard to argue with great food and spectacular views. It helps that food is an obsession with the locals, making Goa a foodies’ paradise. Finding good, no – excellent food here is easy and everyone leaves with their own secret favourite places that they dream about back home. Food is one of the most fun ways to experience another culture and Goa being the cultural melting pot that it is – the food is exciting, fun and often ‘traditional with a twist’. Here the local ingredients form the basis of the culinary repertoire. Fresh seafood, coconut (in all its forms) and Indian spices along with a healthy dash of the produce that the Portuguese introduced to India – chillies, tomatoes, pumpkins, not to mention Iberian garlic sausages and vinegar, wines and olive oil.
Most of Goan food is some corrupted version of a Portuguese dish that the Goans couldn’t eat because it was too bland. So the ubiquitousvindaloo is a corruption of vinho e alhos, a garlicky Portuguese wine-vinegar marinade and Chourico is the Goan version of the Iberian sausage. When I say ‘Goan version’ I might as well as say ‘fiery hot version’! The Portuguese also brought with them food that they had encountered from their travels around the world. So don’t be surprised if you find prawn balchao from Myanmar or a chicken cafreal from Mozambique.
So, you can expect a truly international spread, even if you are eating at a humble traditional Goan home. Of course, the Goans like their food hot, but the influx of tourism has taught them to modify their food once again. The shacks that cater to more foreign taste buds will serve up say, fresh seafood grilled with a simple lemon, butter, garlic dressing. Here in Goa, there are no rules when it comes to eating meat (like in other parts of India). Pork and chicken are favoured though you won’t have to look too far to get some beef.
Also, in the last twenty years or more, Goa has steadily been increasing her number of world-class restaurants serving cuisines from Burmese to French in beautiful surroundings. Restaurants so good you will forget you are still in a tiny village in the middle of a developing country!
By air: If you are getting to Goa through Mumbai, you won’t be facing any trouble, as there are many flights between Goa and Mumbai. Dabolim is Goa’s airport which is 29 km away from the capital Panjim, which is pretty much at the centre of tourist belt. Taxis to Panjim will cost approx INR 500. Many international and domestic airlines fly into and out of Goa from here.
For more information on flights, please visit www.cleartrip.com
By train: Getting to Goa through rail is an exciting experience. The railway stations in Goa are well connected with major cities in India, such as Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, Mangalore and Delhi. Most trains will end at Madgaon which is the main railway station in Goa.
For more information on trains, visit www.irctc.co.in
How to reach Goa by road: Various bus services are operated by the state government and private coach companies in Goa. The Kadamba Bus Company is one of the major bus operators. Many inter-state buses travel to Goa from Mumbai, Bangalore and Hampi. Plenty of luxury coaches and sleepers leave Mumbai (opposite Bombay Gym near Metro Cinema and opposite Bandra Talao) for Goa in the late afternoon, reaching Panjim early the next morning.
You can also go by car or motorcycle which will make for a memorable road trip.
By bus: Goa has a well connected bus network, with stops even in the smallest village. They aren’t particularly clean or punctual, but they are jovial and quite fun. And very cheap!
By motorcycle, bicycle and scooter rental: Two wheelers are perfect for Goa’s tiny roads and riding on a coconut shaded lane by the sea, with the wind in your hair is a quintessential Goa experience. Individuals privately rent out two-wheelers throughout the region. They will most easily be found near bus-stops and city-centres, though all hotels and accommodations will help you rent one. Much of Goa is flat and perfect for bikes. Be careful at night and check your maps before you leave – people often end up lost in the maze of Goa’s maze of lanes!
By taxi and car rental: Taxis and car rental prices fluctuate wildly according to the season. During the peak Christmas-New year season, prices can be exorbitant for very short distances. It would make more sense to hire the car for a day or for your whole trip in bulk. Self-drive car rental is not very easy to come by, but does exist. You will need an International Drivers Permit. Parking might be difficult in some areas.
Thanks to the coastal Konkan region and the backdrop of the Western Ghats, the weather in Goa is pleasant and sunny. There are no extremes in temperature. The average temperature varies between 25°C – 30°C (67.96°F – 81.56°F approx). Once the monsoon has run its course, the skies clear and the weather becomes pleasant. For four to five months from October through February the climate is near perfect; cloudless blue skies, warm but not oppressively hot days, and calm seas. By mid-March the humidity starts to rise as the monsoon begins to approach. From July to September it rains almost incessantly.
The average rainfall is approximately 325cm, the average daily hours of sunshine is nine to ten hours in summer and three to five hours during the monsoon.
Visas must be obtained before you enter the country. Six month multiple-entry visas (valid from the date of issue) are issued to most nationalities regardless of whether you intend to stay that long or want to re-enter the country. Visa fees vary from country to country: approximate costs are A$ 88 for Australians, UK £30 for Britons, €50 for most Europe and US $60 for US passport holders.
Indian currency is the Rupee. One rupee is divided into 100 paise. There are coins of 25 and 50 paise, Rs. 1, 2 and 5, and notes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1000. You are officially not allowed to bring in or take any currency out of the country.
Travel health depends on your pre-departure preparations, your daily health care while travelling and how you handle any medical problem that does develop. This might sound scary, and potentially it is but most tourists will suffer from no more than an upset stomach. There are reasonable well-stocked pharmaceutical stores and small clinics selling drugs that are licensed by Western companies. There are also many qualified doctors with their own private clinics who can provide excellent service. Vaccinations are recommended but not required for India. It pays to make sure your standard immunisations are up to date and Hepatitis A is worth considering. Record all vaccinations on an International Health Certificate, available from your doctor and carry it with you.
From a safety at sea standpoint, there is not much surf and besides the monsoon these are some of the safest waters in the world. Still, some precautions should be taken. Early and late in the season, undertows and currents can be strong even close to the beach. Also, swimming during the monsoon and at night or if you are intoxicated is definitely not wise.
Goa is probably one of the most family-friendly states in India. Apart from the beach which will be more than enough to keep the kids busy for weeks, there is plenty here to keep them entertained.
In Goa, it all depends on where you are. Tipping is not necessary on remote beaches or the small vegetarian ‘restaurants’ that dot the state. However, if you are in areas with a lot of foreign travellers, tips will be expected. Still, there is no need to go overboard – Rs 10 to 20 is about right for individual staff at your hotel and 10% is normal for restaurants. In Goa, most hotels and restaurants prefer that you contribute to a general tips box so the money can be evenly distributed among all. It is not necessary to tip drivers for short trips but if you have hired a car for a day or longer, a small tip of Rs 50-100 per day will be adequate.