Stylish, fun and very sexy – the black sheep of all Kerala house boats, Discovery is unlike anything else you have seen in India.
Joerg Drechsler, the owner of the ‘Malabar Escapes’ properties, has taken a risk with Discovery on Lake Vembanad but created a niche that is unparalleled. There is none of the thatch and Malayali food found on every house boat in Kerala; not even the aesthetic mix of the traditional and contemporary found in his other hotels – Discovery is out and out cutting edge modern.
Its straight box-cut silhouette and the aqua blue contrasted with the bright reds of its doors; give it a fun, quirky look that betray Jorge’s German roots. Rescued as an old traditional rice boat from a nearby ashram, Discovery was restored with a noise free electric outboard motor. The traditional hull of the rice barge has been kept and its curves offset the contemporary architecture while the sundeck above becomes your grandstand.
So besides being a fabulously stylish boat, it is also environmentally friendly (one of its kind in Kerala) and extremely comfortable. Well, it should be – there’s just one bedroom. It’s just you and your partner on this fabulous boat cruising through parts of the Kerala backwaters that few tourists have ever seen (Discovery is narrower than other house boats and can squeeze into parts that others can’t get to!)…and did I mention the food? The in-house chef has been trained in accordance with Malabar Escapes very high standards and serves up some confident international cuisine which would be tasty anywhere but tastes more special in candlelight on the sun deck of your own private boat!
Stay
Discovery has just one bedroom, together with a large living room and bathroom area below deck. Its contemporary tropical interiors are streamlined and sleek, with white walls, polished dark-wood floors and crisp lines. The bedroom has a comfy queen-sized bed in 100% cotton. The room is pristine white with a huge double glazed window that lets in a lot of light making it bright and airy. Stabs of colour are provided for by the jewel- coloured silk cushions and the vibrant art work. The feeling is modern, nautical and beautiful. The 2 L-shaped sofas in the living room can be made up as children’s beds. Expect state of the art bathrooms.
Dine
For anyone who hasn’t been to India in the past 5 years – gone are the days of eating only boiled vegetables for fear of catching a stomach bug or living on Coke because it was familiar. Discovery is a good place to be surprised by the highly sophisticated food you can get in the remotest of places now – a sample of the ‘chocolate samosas with a mango coulis for dessert might be a good place to start.
Begin your day with a breakfast of fresh fruit and tasty poached eggs as you pass tiny coconut-framed thatched villages on the shore, the postcard-perfect homes of fishermen and their families. Lunchtime is a triptych of salads that will often boast a perfect babaganoush, perfect to linger over while you watch the many fascinating birds on Lake Vembanad.
You can speak to the chef about what you would like to eat and what your preferences are and they will be dutifully complied. There is some excellent Indian food possible as well, in fact, you could probably ask for anything and it will be provided if it can. Don’t leave without dining by candlelight on the top deck!
The best thing to do on Discovery is to flop back on the comfortable deck chairs and watch Kerala go by. If it interests you, the migratory birds on Lake Vembanad are fabulous – owing to the nearby Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary and a good bird book won’t go to waste. An occasional dunk in the water, lunch and going to the sun deck for sunset is perfect.
If you are going for the 3 nights, 4 days full boat cruise experience; it has been designed so there is never a dull moment for you. You will be taken to Ambalapuzha, and guided around its famous temple, after which the boat will set off for Thandapura where it will anchor for the night. It will then go to Mannar and a chance to witness a late night devotional Kathakali performance at the Thiruvallasree Vallabhaswamy temple. Later, you will be taken to an old ancestral house where the lady of the house will show you around and host atraditional meal on a banana leaf. You return on a tuk tuk through the rice fields to the boat.
The success of Kerala backwater cruises in recent years has seen a huge increase in pollution, with hundreds of diesel-powered boats plying through these fragile ecosystems. Malabar Escapes wanted to create a pollution free and energy conscious houseboat, without sacrificing any of their renowned flair and craftsmanship.
They took a traditional kettuvallam (stitched hull) and added a well-insulated aluminium-plywood superstructure, an energy-efficient LPG engine and two silent electric motors (front and back). A battery bank allows these to be charged during the day, and is used for light and power at night.
The double-glazed lower deck cabins are built with an insulated sandwich of aluminium, rock-wool and plywood. Protected from direct sunlight by a system of pretty louvered windows and sun sails, only a lower energy output is required to keep cool.
The hot water in the bathroom is provided by the engine’s cooling system. The 3 staff sleep in separate quarters with their own shower and cabins.
All systems of the boat are eco compatible leaving zero contamination in the fragile eco system of the backwaters.
What’s Hot!
- Eco-friendly houseboat with all mod cons (one of its kind in Kerala).
- As the boat is narrower than its more traditional counterparts, it can slip into the undiscovered parts of the increasingly busy backwaters.
- Excellent staff and service.
- Unique attractions to see along the way – temples, late-night dance displays even a visit to a traditional Kerala farm house where you will be fed a traditional lunch on banana leaf.
What’s Not!
- You have to start (or end) at Privacy at Sanctuary Bay, as it shuttles between there and Alleppey.
Ideal For Whom
Perfect for couples, as this is a wonderfully private and tranquil holiday.
Discovery accepts children of all ages. Children may be accommodated in their parent’s bedroom or in the adjoining room. The living room couch can be converted into an extra bed. But being on a boat, vigilance is required if children cannot swim. Life jackets are available for all passengers and crew.
When To Visit
By far the best time to go is from end November to March, when it is dry, clear and not too hot. April and May are normally quite dry, but getting rapidly hotter. There is usually some respite from the monsoon in August/September.
How Many Days
Discovery has a 3 nights and 4 days backwater experience which is a lovely way to explore Kerala off the beaten track.
Things To Bring
A swimsuit, sunglasses, a good bird book, camera, binoculars and clothes that are comfortable but won’t be out of place at a temple.
Discovery is moored at its sister villa – Privacy at Sanctuary Bay – on the shores of Lake Vembanad, near the Thaneermukkom Bridge, facing the backwaters of Kumarakom in Southern Kerala.
By air
Cochin airport is the closest and is accessible by daily flights from all Indian metros & Lakshadweep. There are also flights from all major European metros via Bangalore, Madras, Mumbai, Delhi, Dubai, Kuwait, Doha, Muscat, Bahrain, Abu Dhabi, Colombo. Flights that come in from Asia via Singapore land in Cochin too.
By train
Alleppey or Ernakulam are the closest stations to Privacy. There are connections to all major cities in India and Kerala. Alternatively take a train to Chertala, and then drive 8 km by car to Thaneermukkom.
By water
REGAL BOW RIDER 130 HP 6-seater speedboat from The Malabar House through the Vembanad lake up to Privacy at Sanctuary Bay
By road
Take the NH47 highway from Thiruvananthapuram or Ernakulam to Chertala, then Thaneermukkom, and then
Joerg Drechsel, an ethnographic exhibition curator with enviable taste and style and Txuku Iriate Solana, his attractive Basque wife, an excellent cook – are the owners of the widely successful Malabar Escapes. Already having the ingredients of a good holiday between the two of them – the perfect marriage of excellent design and good food; it was difficult for them to go wrong.
Their properties are an extension of their fine sensibilities, and especially Mr Drechsels, who was a curator of Islamic art. His eclectic art collection promises that you will find fine objects of art imaginatively displayed all over the hotels. Besides having excellent taste, the couple is equally passionate about the environment and though Malabar Escapes is the last word on a luxurious, stylish holiday in Kerala – their properties have very good eco-credentials – allowing for a stress-free holiday in every way.
