Piramal Haveli (mansion) was built in 1928, in Bagar – in Shekhawati Rajasthan. The Shekhawati region is known for the murals on its havelis and houses. The Haveli has an impressive green façade with pillared corridors enveloping the front lawns on three sides and green decorative tiles adorning the walls spanning 3 1/2 feet from the ground up. The property has a large garden and two pillared courtyards. Its Edwardian-Rajasthani architecture takes you back in time to British India.
The ‘baithak’ or sitting room has an authentic Rajasthani feel with antique furniture that serves a common lounge and recreational area with a television and selection of board games to entertain the guests. The ceilings have painted angels and mythological scenes and the walls are adorned with a series of impressive portraits of the original owner, Seth Piramal Chaturbhuj Makharia (1892-1958).
The Piramal Haveli has 8-rooms and is managed by the Neemrana Hotels. This is an ideal place to rent as a whole for a family reunion or as a small group outing for people who like to explore places in India that have rich cultural heritage. The rooms at the haveli are highly affordable.
There are plenty of historical sights to see. Drive around to see the painted houses, small forts and castles and the grand marble and silver pillared Rani Sati temple. Set up a group dinner for 6-8 at the nearby sand dunes, (20 minutes away), with the Delhi office in advance. Otherwise cozy up by the sigris, (coal fired heaters), back at the haveli, while listening to traditional Rajasthani folk performers. Then follow up this perfect evening by a traditional vegetarian Marwari meal.
The Neemrana group is known for its heritage conservation. They support locally sourced products, promote 100% cotton fabrics and employ locally. Wherever possible, they use CFL light bulbs and auto cut geysers. The staff is conscious about saving water and electricity. So you are in a very ‘responsible’ zone here.
Stay
The hotel consists of 8 rooms set around a colourful frescoed courtyard embellished with the Shekhawati art and antique furniture. The rooms are decorated in a given colour theme and named accordingly: Pink, Grey, Yellow, Red, Blue, Green, White, and Gold rooms.
There are 2 regular rooms with double beds, these are smaller in size with two chairs and a table. The other 6 grand rooms are larger in size. They have a lounge area with a sofa set and 2 arm chairs as well as an armoire and dressing table. This is a perfect setup for families to hang out and lounge around in the privacy of their own rooms. Some of the rooms are even interconnected. The doors leading to the rooms are antique wooden and brass double doors with brass bolts.
The rooms are equipped with 2 elegant bedside lamps, a torch and a small electric heater as well as an air conditioner and ceiling fan. They provide 2 complementary bottles of mineral water. The rooms do not have telephones or televisions. The bathrooms are modest with a shower and a bucket.
Dine
The Piramal Haveli serves delicious local vegetarian Marwari food on thalis (or platters) in the summers and as long as there are a manageable number of guests, in the winters. Non Vegetarian dinners are served for special occasions such as Christmas eve. While the property does not have a bar or an alcohol menu, the staff can arrange for beer and Indian gin upon request.
The meals are typically served in the second courtyard with sigris (or coal fired heaters) at night. They have a tiny dining room that fits one table of 6-8. Dinners at the sand dunes can also be arranged with prior notice through the Delhi office, for a minimum of 6-8 guests.
Breakfast consisted of puris (fried bread) and aloo bhaji (potato curry). There were also 3 types of cereals, Neemrana preserves (from their orchards at Ramgarh), fruit and white bread for those looking for a more healthy breakfast.
The delicious pakoras (fried savoury snacks) served at teatime were ravished instantly by the hotel guests!
At dinner we savoured the popular Rajasthani dish – Dal, Bati Churma — lentils (dal), deep fried savoury wheat balls (Bati) and coarsely ground wheat crushed and cooked with ghee and sugar (Churma). Other Rajasthani items served were papad, gatta curry (made of gram flour) and beans. They also had some of the north Indian dishes such Dum Aloo (potato curry) and paneer (cottage cheese), tandoori roti (Indian bread) and vegetable pulao (flavoured rice). For dessert they had kheer (Indian rice pudding made with milk).
Piramal Haveli is a perfect base to visit the sights in the Shekhavati region that include painted havelis, temples, monuments, and the sand dunes at an extra rate (for a minimum size group). The painted havelis from the 18th and 19th centuries, spread all over the region, have traditional themes such as scenes from folk tales and mythology, animals as well as portraits of merchants, British sahibs, even Victorian technological influences and scenes of romance!
20 minutes away from the Haveli is the magnificent Rani Sati temple in Jhunjunu which has a marble edifice and plated silver carvings on pillars and a ceiling covered with enamelled meena (a specific type of art) work on silver. This 400 year old temple is dedicated to the Rani Sati who jumped on her husband’s funeral pyre to save herself from being captured by the muslims.
Indoor facilities at the Haveli include a well stocked library and activities such as Carrom, Chess, cards and musical chairs.
Guests can rent bicycles or opt for a camel cart ride for 4 people. The manager can organize a Shekhawati massage by an outside masseuse on request.
In the evening there is a troupe that performs Rajasthani folk songs accompanied by traditional instruments while one young male dancer entertains the guests huddled around the bonfire in the first courtyard. Apparently they also have a puppet show at certain times of the year.
Built in 1928, Piramal Haveli is a heritage hotel restored with very little renovation. The property is furnished with antique furniture that originally belonged to the Haveli and is supplemented by some Neemrana owned furniture. The furnishings are 100% cotton as are the waiters’ uniforms. CFL light bulbs are installed in the staff quarters and back areas of the Haveli.
The staff at Piramal Haveli (mostly male) – from the guides and drivers to the performers are all locally hired from the area. They serve traditional Rajasthani vegetarian food which is sourced locally.
The Neemrana group has one of the best employee packages in the heritage hotel category that includes good salaries, children’s education, bonus (percentage of the salary), provident funds, insurance and health check ups. The Neemrana Hotels Private Ltd. also has the Neemrana Music Foundation that supports musicians and promotes performances. They also support the NGO Khushii that works towards empowerment of women in Neemrana.
What’s Hot!
- Piramal Haveli is a great example of the painted havelis in the Shekhawati region and takes you back in time.
- The venue is very affordable and the 8 room Piramal Haveli is a perfect option for a small group of family reunion.
- The food is definitely a high point—you get to taste the local food in the region.
- The evening entertainment with the Rajasthani folk music is a cultural insight.
What’s Not!
- Certain parts of the haveli are a bit run down—the bathroom was not dusted properly and the outside of the building looked a bit dowdy.
- The back garden is not well maintained and was in fact completely dry.
- No wine or liquor is offered. And the traditional Marwari fare, only allows for vegetarian fare!
- You can hear and see the guests going in an out of the rooms or bolting their antique doors
- Since the guests converge at the 2 courtyards for meal times, the noisy groups or crying children tend to disturb other guests looking for some quiet time.
Ideal For Whom
The Piramal haveli is ideal for a small group or families travelling together with children. It is very affordable and nice and cosy for groups to have separate rooms and yet spend time together. Children can even borrow the board games or play carrom in the lounge area. The haveli is not ideal for couples looking to have a romantic trip when the Haveli is booked as they might be disturbed by the larger groups especially during meal times.
When To Visit
The best season to visit Piramal Haveli is from September to March. The weather is cool and pleasant and the surrounding areas are lush and green.
The summers are very dry and hot and so sightseeing will be quiet tiring. Also since the Haveli has open courtyards especially for the dining set up, it might not be a comfortable time to visit.
Summer temperature: 40.5°C (average)
Winter: 30°C (average)
How Many Days
One night and two half days is ideal to see the nearby sights in the Shekhawati region of painted havelis, small palaces and minor forts as well as a temple or two.
Things To Bring
Before you go, try to check out ‘Rajasthan: The Painted Walls of Shekhawati’ by Wacziarg and Nath, and ‘The Painted Towns of Shekhawati’ by Ilay Cooper. Or better still, carry them along with you.
Since the sun is quite strong, I would recommend a hat and sunscreen.
Rajasthan being a desert region has dry air so carrying bottles of water is definitely a must.
If you are travelling in the summer then take cool airy cotton clothes.
Dining outdoors in the winters gets a bit chilly so take a light sweater or shawl.
You would definitely need comfortable shoes to walk around.
Piramal Haveli is a mansion in eastern Rajasthan’s Shekhawati region, rich with art and cultural heritage.
Jaipur is the nearest domestic airport (2.5 hours away) and Delhi is the closest international base (4.5 hours away). Shekhawati is well connected by rail from Jaipur, Delhi and Bikaner. The nearest Railway Station is Jhunjhunu – 15 kms away.
If you are travelling from Delhi, take the Dharuheda flyover and turn right towards Riwadi. Your route would be – Narnaul-Singhana-Chirawa-Bagar. If you are travelling from Jaipur, your route is Chomu-Ringus-Shikhar-Nawalghar-Jhunjunu- Bagar.
Once you get to the Bagar circle, take the right and the coming left. Drive down and you will find a big gate. There is a sign board here. Enter this gate and you will find yourself at the doorstep of Piramal Haveli.
This was the home of Seth Piramal Chaturbhuj Makharja who made his fortune in Bombay trading in cotton, opium, silver and other commodities. Shekhavati was made into an independent kingdom in 1471 by Rao Shekha (1433-1488), till 1738, when it reverted back to the Jaipur State. The haveli, now owned by Bombay-based businessman Dilip Piramal was given to be managed by the Neemrana Hotels Private Ltd in the early 1990s.
The Neemrana Group has 14 ‘non-hotels’ heritage properties today located all over India including the Neemrana Fort-Palace, its flagship property in the Alwar district of Rajasthan. Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg, the Co-Chairman of the Neemrana Group, extensively travelled and photographed the region of Shekhavati from 1977 to 1982. Their book “Rajasthan: The Painted Walls of Shekhawati” led to the discovery of what they called ‘ an open air art gallery’ and resulted in the opening of tourism in this region.
“Its frescoes of flying angels, flying machines and gods riding in motorcars are quaint, indeed.’—“Painted Town”,
The Hindu, April 03, 2005.
