Just a few kilometres north of Alleppey through a quiet backwater road, a set of imposing gates open to welcome you to someone’s idea of what a Lake Como villa would look like if recreated in Kerala. That someone is Maria Fernhof, an Italian designer who spent the last two decades living and loving Kerala. After building her first hotel in the Cardamom Hills, she set about creating Purity, her idea of a luxury villa on the backwaters.
villa is set in a one-acre piece of land, with a large frontage of lawn backed by a low slung C-shaped villa set on two levels. On the ground floor, two rooms flank each wing, while on the first floor the sumptuous suite has magnificent views of the lawns and backwaters from your bed. A cottage annexe in a pure white theme was originally meant to be the private lodgings of Maria, but is now let out to large families instead. The rooms are delicately designed – each in a distinctive colour theme. The bathrooms are huge with shower cabinets, and central free standing bathtubs or Jacuzzis.
You can eat in the main dining room, have breakfast in one of the continuous verandas outside the rooms, or have a cool drink by the poolside. At night, dining on the lawn or in the courtyard under the stars is magical. The food is divine – a fusion of both Italian and local Kerala cuisine and served with a small selection of wines.
This is the kind of holiday hideaway that is perfect for a family reunion or for a group of friends wanting to do a house-party. There’s plenty to do, or plenty not to do. You can swim in the small lap pool, have a massage in the ayurveda pavilion, take a boat ride in the backwaters of the Vembanad Lake, or make short excursions to the beach at Alleppey or the historical sights of Cochin.
All of which will make you scurrying back to be pampered at the end of the day. The current owners have invited Maria to come back each year for as long as she wants. And like a narcotic drug, Purity will have you coming back again and again!
Stay
The villa is set in a one-acre piece of land, with a large frontage of lawn backed by a low slung C-shaped villa set on two levels. On the ground floor, two Regular rooms flank each wing, while on the first floor the sumptuous suite has magnificent views of the lawns and backwaters from your bed.
The Regular rooms are delicately designed – each in a distinctive colour theme like Rose or Blue, and individually furnished. One room has a wooden headrest fitted into a wall; in another room, a beautiful four-poster bed forms the centre piece. The walls are white, the linen is crisp white cotton which contrast well with the floor tiling and brightly coloured silk cushions. The bathrooms are huge with shower cabinets and central free-standing bathtubs or Jacuzzis.
The upper floor Suite has contemporary Italian design and is truly stunning, with a huge bed, big enough to sleep three adults. The ensuite bathroom and dressing room are luxurious – with a circular bath, recessed cupboards and a romantic shower cubicle.
A cottage annexe in a pure white theme was originally meant to be the private lodgings of Maria, but is now let out to large families instead, when Maria is not at the property.
Regular Rooms sleep three adults or two adults and two children. The Suite or the Cottage can accommodate up to three children each.
Dine
From the immaculately synchronised table settings, to the use of natural green leaves and flowers to make napkin rings and table decorations, dining is an unforgettable experience. Maria’s legacy is visible in the cuisine, the preparation, and the table service.
The food is divine – a fusion of both Italian and local Kerala cuisine and served with a small selection of wines. Meals are served course by course. You can eat in the main dining room, have breakfast in one of the continuous verandas outside the rooms, or have a cool drink by the poolside. At night, dining on the lawn or in the courtyard under the stars is magical.
Hire a traditional houseboat and cruise the backwaters of the Vembanad Lake, especially at sunset.
Visit the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary nearby (accompanied by a guide), or just take along your binoculars as you stroll by the sandy lake beach watching for migratory birds.
Spend sometime with the neighbours and watch their unique Chinese fishing nets at work.
Spoil yourself with an Ayurvedic massage or enjoy a session of yoga (instructor on call).
Cool-off with a dip in the swimming pool and get yourself a nice even tan!
Take a car and driver and visit the beach at Alleppey, or spend the day at Fort Cochin with its palace, synagogue, churches and cafes.
Wake up to a gorgeous sunrise over the eastern shores of the lake.
What’s Hot!
- Stunning design – a fusion of Italian opulence with simple Kerala, that can be best described as ‘Indian-chic’.
- The food is simply divine – and especially outdoors by the waters and under the stars.
- Huge bathrooms and bathtubs to get naughty in!
- The view of the backwaters.
What’s Not!
- Each room is different, so if you are travelling as a group, it might be a bit of a problem sorting out who gets what.
- The house dogs create a bit of a racket – but the owners have promised to relocate them.
- The swimming pool is not really good for swimming, but enough to cool off and have a dip.
Ideal For Whom
Couples wanting a romantic hideaway. Great for families with young children – with all the additional sleeping space, especially perfect for a family reunion. Groups of friends wanting to do a house-party will love this place.
Children are welcome. Children below 6 stay free. Between 6-12 years, there is an additional charge. Children over 12 are treated as adults.
When To Visit
There are no particular seasonal temperature changes in most of the backwaters and coast of Kerala which benefits from a tropical climate, being warm and humid all year round. The middle of the day, however, is sunny and warm with clear skies. It tends to rain from May – early August when the monsoon sets in. There can be sporadic showers in October. The best time to visit is from September to April.
How Many Days
We recommend a minimum of 2 or 3 nights to really enjoy the pleasures of Purity, if you are at the end of a trip in Kerala or South India. It’s the perfect place to end a holiday – unwind and recharge before you head home.
If you are looking for a complete lock-down retreat with no travel plans, and you are coming in and out of Cochin, it makes for a perfect week-long holiday.
Things To Bring
In dry weather, bring your swimwear, dark glasses, and a nice hat. Sunscreen is a must especially if you are planning to work on that tan. If you are an avid birdwatcher, then a pair of good binoculars or even a camera with a long range lens is useful. Mosquitoes are common being on the lakeside, so a favourite repellent is handy when you are outdoors – either walking, lounging or dining. Bring your own alcohol or wine – the selection here is very limited. Since wireless internet access is available, bring your laptop as a last resort!
Purity is located on the western shores of Lake Vembanad in Muhamma, a beautiful village situated in the heart of Alappuzha District of Kerala.
The distance from Cochin International Airport is only 70 kms by road, a 2 hour drive. The distance from Trivandrum International Airport is 171 kms, a four hour drive by car. The nearest bus terminal and railway station is in the town of Alappuzha, which is an 8 km drive from Purity.
Detailed directions (and they will be needed, if you are organising your own transport!) will be furnished on confirmation of bookings.
Joerg Drechsel, an ethnographic exhibition curator with enviable taste and style and Txuku Iriate Solana, his attractive Basque wife, an excellent cook – are the owners of the widely successful Malabar Escapes. Already having the ingredients of a good holiday between the two of them – the perfect marriage of excellent design and good food; it was difficult for them to go wrong.
Their properties are an extension of their fine sensibilities, and especially Mr Drechsel’s, who was a curator of Islamic art. His eclectic art collection promises that you will find fine objects of art imaginatively displayed all over the hotels. Besides having excellent taste, the couple is equally passionate about the environment and though Malabar Escapes is the last word on a luxurious, stylish holiday in Kerala – their properties have very good eco-credentials.
“This sense of space prevails not only in the sweeping outdoors, but also in the tastefully decorated interiors. The large rooms are minimalist in design, clutter-free and accoutred in stylish stone accessories. Attached rambling verandas make the most of abundant natural elements, the cross-ventilation allowing the breeze from nearby waters to waft in gently, maintaining a cool temperature even in the sultriest of Kerala summers.”
VOGUE, JANUARY 2009.
