On the foothills of the Himalayas, The Old Bungalow built in 1830, and The Writers’ Bungalow in 1860, are beautiful masterpieces located in the fruit basket of the Kumaon region. These heritage structures once housed the British and Indian officers as well as their wives. Many writers and thinkers have been drawn to the beauty of Ramgarh: Sri Aurobindo and Narain Swami established ashrams, Rabindranath Tagore wrote some of his major work-even contemplating founding Shantiniketan here! From May to September the orchards by the Writers’ and Old Bungalows hang with Apricots, Plums, Peaches, Pears and Apples.
Neemrana properties and Bungalows at Ramgargh in particular lend themselves perfectly to the lazy traveller. They are not located in the “hotspots” of the country. The properties tend to be out of the way, middle of nowhere, with not much to do but take in the nature and enjoy the warm service.
Other than the Neemrana properties and some local villages, Talla Ramgarh seemed to be virtually untouched by tourists. Not surprising because there aren’t tourist spots (temples, forts, and in the mountains there are always popular “points” from where you get views). You are free to walk along the different paths, including the main roads, without cars passing you in high speed spewing smoke into your face. There are several other walking trails through the mountains, and down further into the valley.
Stay
The rooms at Ramgarh Bungalows have been created to enhance your stay in the mountains. That means no A/C, no phone and no TV. A great base from which to explore the Kumaon Hills, these 19th-century British bungalows feature deep verandas, bay windows, fireplaces, and dainty gardens bordered by chestnut trees. The Writers’ Bungalow and the while the Old Bungalow are the oldest dating back to 1860 and 1830 All cottages are decorated in a bright, homey atmosphere with floral fabrics.
Four additional bungalows, the Vista Bungalow, Rose Cottage, Ashok Vatika and the Cliffhouse, have recently been added, all dressed in the same 19th-century English ambience. All Old Bungalow rooms sleep three, while the Lemon Room in Vista Bungalow, and Rose Cottage’s Magnolia Room sleeps four.
Dine
Most Neemrana properties have a fair share of European/American guests so their buffets have a judicious mix of Indian & continental cuisine. Breakfast, lunch & Dinner buffets are offered which are available between the stipulated time gaps. A La Carte option is not available, but with a sumptuous buffet on offer, it’s not missed much. The food is prepared fresh with quantities modified as per the number of guests. The local produce, fresh salads & in house jams & sauces are a speciality.
Typical Indian staples like yellow daal (lentils), paneer (cottage cheese) and roti (Indian bread) were excellent as well. Dessert included creamy vanilla ice cream and almond pudding.
For tea there was spicy Indian masala chai with home made butter cookies and a freshly baked cake.
Dinner is usually a lavish buffet with dishes like Mutton with Olives, a Pasta Toscana as well as a delicious broccoli soup. The Indian selection is equally interesting. They also have innovative desserts like a Baked Yogurt or a decadent rich chocolate mousse.
Breakfasts are large in these ‘non-hotels’ with freshly baked bread (with both white and brown bread), fresh fruits and juices, cake, the famous Neemrana preserves made from the produce of the orchard you are living in!—apple chutney, pear and plum preserves as well as orridge or dry cereal, eggs and something Indian.
The staff is warm, courteous and friendly. There is no room service but the rooms have an electric kettle, so you can have all your umpteen cups of tea/coffee/warm water without worry. It would be advisable, however to carry your own snacks/biscuits/fruits as the resort cannot provide the same and there is no shop anywhere close by.
Here there is not much more to do than relax and enjoy the scenic beauty of the area. Lawn tables, views, and the possibility of walks are all so alluring that even the laziest will be drawn outdoors. Go for long walks or soak in the silence or get a picnic packed and stop at the nearest pretty place. There is a great walk down to the in the valley and back up again to the hotel. Bird watching and gentle nature walks are other ways to enjoy Ramgarh’s beauty. – Get a permit from the Forest Department Office and go fishing – there is plenty of Mahseer in the nearby Kosi and Kalirao rivers.
Nainital is about 25kms from Ramgarh and could make for an interesting day visit. Bhowali is 14 kms away from Ramgarh and is a picturesque town.
The fruit orchard within which the property is nestled is organically grown and all the produce grown is served fresh to guests. The produce from this orchard is also made into organic jams and preserves which are served in all Neemrana properties around the country. The bungalows themselves are relics from the past – the Old Bungalow being the oldest at 1830. As usual Neemrana have managed to restore it back to its former glory and have done a great service to the cultural heritage of our country by doing so. Local artisans were used in the restoration of the cottages.
The hotel is also very stringent about putting up signs in the bathrooms and rooms to let guests know about the importance of saving water and caring for the environment. A sign in the room has a detailed list of the amount of water used for showering or brushing your teeth and the ways in which you can save water while doing these things. Every Neemrana bathroom has a bucket and mug provided if you decide to have a bucket bath instead of a shower, which will save you almost 90 litres a day!
Like all other Neemrana’s, they have solar heating and CFL bulbs for the whole property. They use only cotton and natural materials as linen, and have a request for every guest in his room to reuse towels to save water. The staff is also trained to reduce wastage as much as possible. Bathrooms are designed with water saving fittings and gray water is recycled to water the gardens, and rain water is harvested. Food either comes from their own organic farms or from the local market.
Even though the staff is drawn from leading hotel management schools, they have been trained to give visitors a ‘homely’ flavour to their hospitality. The employees are local and there is a good ratio of men and women working at the hotel.
What’s Hot!
- The idyllic location. Nestled within an orchard overlooking snow peaked mountains in the Kumaoni Hills.
- The lovely rooms – delightful colonial/floral comfort zones.
- There are some great walks to be had from the Bungalows.
What’s Not!
- Not the place for those who like to be in the thick of things.
- The views from the cheaper room in the Old Bungalow trail others.
Ideal For Whom
Hill walking couples will think they’ve reached heaven. It’s too hot to laze on Indian beaches during the summer – so if you’re looking to just ‘chill out’ – Ramgarh Bungalows is perfect.
Kids will love the outdoors, but like all Neemrana Hotels, the hotel almost seems too ‘adult’ for them.
When To Visit
Ramgarh has a moderate climate even in the summer with the temperatures rarely going beyond 25°C; though in winter it can get very chilly. The best time to visit Ramgarhl is between March to June. During the monsoons, between July and September, experiences heavy monsoon showers, with temperatures dropping abruptly. September to October is a good time to visit as well. The months of January to March are marked by the snowfall.
How Many Days
Three nights and four days will be good to really relax, even get yourself to go on some walks.
Things To Bring
No matter what season you are here in, carry your woollies! Unlike the rest of India, the Indian Himalayas can get bitingly cold. Like in all high altitudes the weather can be unpredictable, so carry a warm jacket, a thin pull over and an umbrella! Good walking shoes are a must. As it can get quite dry and sunny (even when it is cold) some chapstick and a pair of sunglasses will come handy.
Ramgarh Bungalows is located in the small town of Ramgarh, a half hour drive from Nainital in the state of Uttarkhand in North India.
By Air: The nearest domestic Airport is Palam Airport at New Delhi and the nearest International/domestic airport is Indira Gandhi-International airport at New Delhi or Lucknow. Delhi is a 325 km drive away and Lucknow is around 440 km away.
By train: Ranikhet Express which departs from Old Delhi Railway Station at night and arrives early next morning at Ramnagar is the best option from Delhi. The II AC compartment of this train is very comfortable. You could also take a train from Agra to Lal Kuan (Mathura to Lal Kuan by Kumaon Express). The nearest rail head is in Kathgodam 38 kms from the Bungalows.
By car: Delhi is a 325 km drive from Ramgarh Bungalows. Go out past Nizammudin Bridge (bypass Ghaziabad) onto 24 until Moradabad (take bypass), then left up to Thakurdwara, Kashipur, down 74 and up to Bazpur, then past Kaladhungi, go through Nainital to Bhowali (11 kms) from where you fork right to the market and then left to Ramgarh and head to the ‘Dak Bungalows’. A detailed guideline for a road journey to Camp could be provided on request.
Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg first came upon their flagship property – the Neemrana Fort (after which they named their company) while researching the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan for a book. Aman Nath was a renowned historian and author, and Francis was a French diplomat who fell in love with the cultural heritage of India. So much so, that he settled in the country way back in the 1970’s. Their combined love for architecture, design and history made them buy the fort on an impulse…and the rest is history.
The Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ chain was started and the duo still continue to charm travellers with their excellent knack for location hunting and finding beautiful buildings that are lovingly restored by them. They now have more than fifteen properties scattered around the country, ranging from the 14th century to the 21st. They are stringent about staying true to the cultural roots of their buildings, and the properties definitely make you feel like they were restored for the pure love of it. They claim that they have no commercial interest in the hotels, and it shows!
The Neemrana properties are called ‘non-hotels’ because of the feeling they project that the house has just been left behind by the family that owned it, complete with the furniture and art and the little knick knacks that make a home.
“For a restful, soul-calming sojourn in atmospheric colonial accommodations that aren’t quite hotels and are definitely not homestays, the Neemrana Hotels’ Ramgarh Bungalows is hard to match.” Frommers Guide
“Perched in an orchard halfway up a mountain about an hour from Nainital, this ultra quiet getaway easily let you make day trips into town but fosters relaxation away from the noise and crowds. Overlooking the picturesque village of Ramgarh, its individually decorated cottages have attracted the likes of acclaimed Indian writer Rabindranath Tagore. Aspiring scribes may want to rent the aptly named Writer’s Bungalow and see if inspiration hits.” Fodors
