Built in the 1920s by an enterprising Indian keen to match the splendour of the colonial buildings in Cochin, the Kanam Estate that houses the hotel is perched on a hill in the heart of one of Kerala’s rubber plantations. The views over the blue mountains of the Western Ghats are breathtaking and the surrounding plantation, papaya trees and pepper vines, create a thoroughly tropical feel. The building is now nearly a century old and has aged with dignity and charm. Two-storied with high ceilings and an interesting mix of Victorian Gothic and Art Deco, the building would ordinarily seem out of place in its lush environs but the owner, Joerg Drechsel, has weaved magic with his nimble fingers once again.
Joerg’s signature style of modern minimalism reveals the simple grandeur of the architectural heritage of Kanam (used in all the Malabar Escapes properties). He has also made full use of the tropical spice gardens around the house by giving it up to the outside. The house is open on both sides to allow natural ventilation and the windows are wooden shuttered instead of glass. The beautiful main living room comes alive as it has no walls – only lattice screens – and the high ceilings help by creating a sense of space.
The pièce de résistance is, as always, the pool. Extending into the greenery from the cool, pale green lounger-lined terrace, Serenity’s pool seems like a natural waterhole – at least, that’s how the local birdlife treats it! The verdant greens and the heady scent of exotic flowers and rubber plants oozing their sap is a world away from the sharp chlorine kick of other pools.
These guys know how to do style – from the fabulous pool to the old fashioned gramophone with its collection of wonderful old classical and jazz LPs to the excellent food; it will be hard to find something to complain about. Serenity is just a 2-hour drive from Cochin and halfway to the wildlife reserve of Periyar, making it the ideal stopover on this otherwise rather long journey.
Stay
The villa has 4 Deluxe Double rooms and 2 Deluxe Twin rooms, the difference only lying in the kind of beds. All Serenity’s rooms are decorated in soft colourful tones and boast of spacious double-doored verandas looking out to the plantation surroundings. The two rooms on the ground floor have polished stone floors and the upstairs rooms are carpeted in locally made coir fibre (made of coconut husk). Elegantly appointed, the warm walls contrast well with the crisp white sheets and the glamorous beds are the focal point of the rooms. Ask for the room with the mirror at the head of the bed – it is not like anything you have seen before!
But it is once you open those double doors to the veranda that the room really comes into its own. Along with a table and chairs, you have exclusive use of a huge pillowed platform upon which you can do some reading, spend the afternoon lazing between sips of cold beer or even have your breakfast if you wish…this is not a hotel but a house over which you can reign!
Dine
Serenity’s chef models his daily menu on the seafood dishes and Mediterranean-influenced creations at the Malabar House in Fort Cochin. Lunch however, is usually a traditional south Indian thali – vegetables, curries and chutneys with a mound of rice and a lovely coconut-infused prawn concoction served on a shiny silver tray. Food is tailored to each guest: you can dictate everything from its spiciness to the spot where you eat it. Take advantage of the views from your veranda or the poolside peacefulness. The food is backed by the spotless reputation of Malabar Escapes but is made extra special at Serenity because most of your produce is grown in the surrounding gardens!
The main activity at Serenity (as the name suggests) is to pull up an easy chair on one of the terraces, or unwind on a hammock and know that you are doing it in style. The house is littered with easy chairs and chez lounges, constantly inviting you to just sit down and relax and the pool is just languid enough for a peaceful float. The ayurvedic spa on site is a great way to unwind as well – you can do a complete treatment lasting 7-15 days or just have a few one-off massages.
For the more active, spending a day with Lakshmi will be a departure from the tried and tested. Lakshmi is Serenity’s resident pachyderm – their tamed 30 year old elephant who used to be a circus animal before she was rescued and now works at the farm. No matter how old you are, this will make you feel like you are a child again. The day starts right after you breakfast when you are taken to feed her her breakfast of bananas. This way you familiarise yourself with Lakshmi. You then get on for a ride exploring the plantation and visit the nearby farms teeming with papaya, banana, pepper, coffee, cocoa and pineapple. After lunch at home, you can watch Lakshmi go about her livelihood – pulling logs. The most delightful part of the day is when she saunters back after a long day of work to have a bath.
Alternatively, you could go for a ride on a traditional bullock cart that has been restored and refitted for comfort. There is a picturesque path through green winding roads that has been designated for this. There are also plenty of mountain bikes available at Serenity and they have identified trails with less traffic for you. This is one of the best ways to explore the surroundings. A walk around the plantation to the orchid and plant nursery as well as the village by-lanes can also be arranged.
Near by there are a few temples and churches that are of interest. TheKottayam Valiapally – is a Syrian Orthodox church built in 1550 AD and is a must see for its rare mural frescos. There is also theEttumanoor Mahadevar temple built in 1540 AD and dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Visit the Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre where most of the traditional performing arts are practiced. Activities include Kathbakali, Bharatnatyam, Yoga and Kalarippayattu – the traditional martial art of Kerala. The owners also recommend the Vasthu Vidya Gurukulam – a school for traditional architecture, where Vasthu and mural fresco painting is taught.
Like all Malabar Escape properties – Serenity makes use of hydroelectric power, recycles where possible, and cleans with organic detergents. There are lots of other little things that go into making sure your stay at Serenity is as environmentally conscious as possible. Take Serenity’s toiletry basket for example – it contains a cornucopia of natural products with honey, rose water and lemon face wash; honey shampoo; vanilla conditioner as well as sandalwood moisturising lotion to complete the job!
The vegetables are all home grown and only natural Indian cotton has been used. The carpets in the rooms on the first floor are made of local hand made coir and the swimming pool uses a state of the art filtration system that uses minimal chlorine.
What’s Hot!
- One of very few hotels in India small enough to be rented out as a ‘villa’.
- Superb design values – combining heritage, art, and modern minimalism.
- Incredibly friendly and intuitionally helpful staff.
- Only the freshest local produce is used and most of the vegetables are grown at home!
- Spending the day with Lakshmi, the elephant.
- The Serenity swimming pool with two surrounding pool decks, circled by tropical jungle is a highlight.
What’s Not!
- Secluded and it is a little difficult to find.
- The more active may find that there is not enough to do in the surrounding area.
- Air-conditioning is only in one room but there are overhead fans.
Ideal For Whom
Design conscious couples, families or groups looking to spend some quality time with each other and some peace and quiet. Children are welcome but, being a small and peaceful place; guests are asked to be aware that noise carries here! Child care can be arranged if required though. It is halfway to Periyar from Cochin and makes a nice stopover for those not ready to do the long journey in one go.
Perfect for those interested in seriously chic eco-friendly comfort.
When To Visit
The best time to visit is from August until March. April to May gets hotter with pre monsoon showers. The monsoons are thunderous in Kerala and last from June to August; with sporadic showers in October.
How Many Days
The ideal length of stay should be around 3-4 days – enough to recharge your batteries and be ready to face the rest of India. It is midway between Thekkady and the Malabar Coast / Trivandrum and makes for a welcome break.
Things To Bring
No particularly warm clothes are necessary but, being in the low hills, it cools down at night and a pullover may be required for the evenings and early morning. Depending on how active or lazy you want to be, carry good walking shoes, a pair of binoculars or something laid-back and loungey: sun hats, loose linens and sarongs.
Sugar cubes for feeding Lakshmi, Serenity’s resident elephant will be nice! Luckily due to its hilltop setting, mosquitoes won’t be a nuisance here.
Serenity at Kanam Estate is situated on a small hilltop, surrounded by a rubber plantation, in the heart of the Cardamom Hills, midway between Cochin and Thekkady, in Southern Kerala.
By air
Cochin airport is the closest and is accessible by daily flights from all Indian metros & Lakshadweep. There are also flights from all major European metros via Bangalore, Madras, Mumbai, Delhi, Dubai, Kuwait, Doha, Muscat, Bahrain, Abu Dhabi, Colombo. Flights that come in from Asia via Singapore land in Cochin too.
By train
Ernakulam Junction (South) is the name of the station. There are connections to all major cities in India and Kerala. A rail journey is a good pick for those who want to travel differently.
By road
From Kottayam on the backwaters, it is a 25 km or 1 hour drive. The route is Kottayam – Kumily road – KK road, 7 km before Ponkunam, there is a turning point to Kanam at the Government Press Vazhoor.
If you are coming from Alleppey, take the Changanassery – Kumily road- KK road, same turning point to Kanam after which it is the same route. There are lots of sign boards to guide you to Serenity at Kanam.
Transfers
Serenity arranges transfers by taxi to and from Cochin airport or railway station, or from Kottayam, Trivandrum and other towns.
Joerg Drechsel, an ethnographic exhibition curator with enviable taste and style and Txuku Iriate Solana, his attractive Basque wife, an excellent cook – are the owners of the widely successful Malabar Escapes. Already having the ingredients of a good holiday between the two of them – the perfect marriage of excellent design and good food; it was difficult for them to go wrong.
Their properties are an extension of their fine sensibilities, and especially Mr Drechsel’s, who was a curator of Islamic art. His eclectic art collection promises that you will find fine objects of art imaginatively displayed all over the hotels. Besides having excellent taste, the couple is equally passionate about the environment and though Malabar Escapes is the last word on a luxurious, stylish holiday in Kerala – their properties have very good eco-credentials.
“Serenity, Sitting atop a hill surrounded by rubber plantations, this is for those who yearn for tropical surroundings and spectacular views. You can take a ride on Laxmi, Serenity’s pet elephant, through spice gardens scented with cocoa, pepper, coffee, cardamom, papaya, pineapple and banana.” Vogue, January 2009
