Standing imposingly at a corner of the old Parade Maidan(ground), the Malabar House is an intrinsic part of Fort Kochi’s historical fabric – its recorded history dates back to 1755. Subsequently owned and reshaped by spice traders, tea traders and bankers it became Fort Cochin’s first boutique heritage hotel in 1996.
A beautiful building, it actually comprises of two 18th century colonial-style villas that were built skirting around a courtyard – perhaps to protect the ancient rain tree that still grows within it! A few more trees, a swimming pool, a small open-air theatre area and an excellent restaurant have been added now, immediately helping you forget the town waiting on the other side of the door.
Once you enter The Malabar House, you are consumed by a display of excellent art, clever architecture, white washed walls (with vanilla growing on them) and gorgeous rooms. The colourful walls immediately draw you into a surreal ambience. The crisscross pattern of light and shade, which the artistically grown foliage provides, fall on the patio, creating a sit out with a unique Kerala flavour. Cultural traditions blend with modern amenities and design to meet international standards.
The Malabar House has won best Heritage Hotel awards from the Kerala Government, was Best Heritage Classic Hotel 2003 and has become the first hotel in India to be certified by Green Globe, the global environmental certification programme for travel and tourism.
As proof of its impeccable sensibilities, the hotel has been home to celebrities like Bernardo Bertolucci, the distinguished Italian film director, the British ambassador to Pakistan, Andrew Welch and French minister Jack Lang. The movie “Cotton Mary’ directed by the great Ismail Merchant was also shot extensively here.
Stay
There are 17 rooms at Malabar House of varying sizes and luxury. Each room has its own look, but the five Roof Garden Suites on the first floor with their own private terrace, and the two-floored Malabar Suite at the rear of the house are the most spacious and special. Rooms 10 and 11 have their own roof gardens and double-poster beds made from reclaimed pillars.
The rooms are avant-garde; colourful, with inventive lines and always using traditional furniture but in a contemporary context. The floors are cool and clean, the ceilings high and the walls daubed in a sunny yellow and white. All have antique beds, air conditioning, a mini bar, ceiling fans and lock-up wardrobes as well as telephone and cable TV. The en suite bathrooms have both bath and shower. Accessories include wonderful linen bathrobes, hemp slippers and the Malabar House range of toiletries, all made from natural ingredients. Modern amenities like central A/C, cable TV, phone, WiFi and safe deposit lockers are provided in every room, despite which, a stay at Malabar House feels like stepping back to a more genteel era.
The best part about them all is the art – Fort Cochin has been under the Portugese, Dutch and British during its colonial historyas well as being home to Hindus, Christians, Muslims and Jews. The décor at Malabar house reflects all of it. The owner is a former art curator so each room feels like a slice of an art gallery.
Dine
You can be sure that you are in for a treat when a restaurant has its own ‘food philosophy’ and Malabar Junction – the in-house restaurant will not disappoint. You start your day with a classic Continental breakfast of toast, butter and jam that comes with a delicious muffin and slices of spicy cake, along with Indian fare of steamed banana, coconut and dosas (rice-flour pancakes). For lunch and dinner you will be tantalised by the culinary mix of Mediterranean fine dining and traditional Kerala food that has made the Malabar Junction so famous. Specializing in refined and market fresh food, it is reputed to be one of the finest seafood restaurants in South India.
Dinners are magical with the courtyard full of flickering oil lamps and live performances of classical music. Don’t be shy to ask for something off the menu, the Italian chef will gladly oblige, but don’t leave without trying the Prawns Mango or the delectable Chef’s Salad with Prawns and Squid. Both are highly recommended. Also try the Pork Curry Vindaloo if you’ve been missing meat.
Recently, a new wine and tapas lounge called ‘Divine’ has also been added to the Malabar House. A more informal dinner place, Divine offers a selection of Indian wines, Italian coffee, fresh juices and Spanish tapas.
There is a plethora of activities at the Malabar House, most owing to its excellent location in the heart of Fort Kochi, a delightful part of Cochin and a great place to discover its history. There are bicycles that you can borrow or you could take a leisurely historic walk of the area. Make sure to take in Mattancherry, home to 14 distinct communities, and a maze of markets, temples, churches, mosques and the fabled 16th century synagogue. The warehouses of the old spice market have become India’s biggest market for antiques, artefacts and collectibles, a fabulous place to browse and discover. Don’t miss the unusual Chinese cantilevered fishing nets on the quay nearby.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous you could take a day trip on the backwaters of Kerala or even better consider visits to the hotel’s sister properties – Privacy at Sanctuary Bay and Serenity at Kanam Estate, both of which rival the style at the Malabar House.
If you don’t feel like leaving the cosy environs of the hotel, there is an Ayurvedic spa, free WiFi throughout, and the pool in the courtyard.
The Malabar House has been certified by the famous and very stringent Green Globe certification, making sure that your stay here makes as little as an impact on the environment as possible. The hotel has conserved much of the original layout of the heritage houses and has retained the beautiful rain tree that grows within it. All lighting in the public areas have been converted to power saving fittings. A range of energy efficiency initiatives are used in all their operations e.g. all fresh food is obtained locally and usually daily, with resultant ability to have minimal cold storage capacity on-site which means low energy is used for refrigeration.
Solar panels are used for heating water. They only use Eco-lable paper and biodegradable cleaning chemicals are used for all areas. Like the building, all timber for furniture and the architecture is completely made from restored materials and antiques. More than 80-90% of staff lives within 20-km radius of hotel. Grey water is treated and reused on-site. Kitchen waste & waste food goes to either an organic farm or a piggery; metal, glass, plastic and paper/cardboard are recycled and containers/drums are returned to suppliers.
What’s Hot!
- Excellent and well trained staff.
- Located in the heart of Fort Cochin – India’s oldest Indo-European town and next door to most of the ‘must see’ places in Cochin.
- Stunning art pieces littered throughout a fabulously designed building. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a design magazine.
- Great food. The Malabar Junction is amongst the best in South India.
What’s Not!
- Mosquitoes collect at the pool area after sun down.
- The pool is not very user friendly due to its location – a slightly public reception courtyard.
Ideal For Whom
Perfect for art and style conscious singles and couples – honeymooners will find their bed sprinkled with jasmine flowers! Children are welcome, though this place is better suited to adults: it’s more of a sanctuary than a play area. An excellent place to see Cochin from, and great if you’re travelling to Cochin for work.
When To Visit
October to January is the best time to visit, as the heat is less intense (max. of 30oC and min. of 18oC). Summer, from February until May gets quite hot – (max of 35oC and 23oC min). Monsoon runs from June until September (max. of 32oC and min. of 20oC), when prices are reduced.
How Many Days
Three or four nights is ideal here – enough to take in the major sights and enjoy the hotel to its maximum. However, a shorter stop will be well worth it as well.
Things To Bring
Mosquito repellent and wrist- and ankle-covering layers are a must in Kerala and particularly at The Malabar House – especially if you plan to sit by the swimming pool in the terrace restaurant. Loose linen trousers and dresses for dining at the very romantic Malabar Junction will be nice. Cameras will help keep your memories fresh for years to come!
The Malabar House is in the heart of historical Fort Cochin, opposite St. Francis Church and 3 minutes walk to the Chinese fishing nets.
By Air:
The closest airport is in Cochin (45 km / 90 minutes). Served by numerous airlines from Europe, the Middle East and Australia, as well as connecting flights from Mumbai (Bombay), Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad and Colombo. Kerala’s other international airport, Trivandrum, is 200 km south of Cochin.
From & To the Airport
The hotel offers transfers from Cochin Airport. Alternatively, it’s easy to book a pre-paid taxi from one of the airport counters inside the concourse. Do remember that traffic on the airport road can get heavy, so plan on delays.
By Train:
If you’re in India already, you can catch a train to Ernakulam Junction from most destinations. From there, ask the hotel for a pre-booked transfer.
By Car:
Fort Cochin is the southernmost enclave of the Ernakulam-Cochin metropolitan area. It is easily accessible from other parts of Kerala.
Joerg Drechsel, an ethnographic exhibition creator with enviable taste and style and Txuku Iriate Solana, his attractive Basque wife, an excellent cook – are the owners of the widely successful Malabar Escapes. Already having the ingredients of a good holiday between the two of them – the perfect marriage of excellent design and good food; it was difficult for them to go wrong.
Their properties are an extension of their fine sensibilities, and especially Mr Drechsel’s, who was a curator of Islamic art. His eclectic art collection promises that you will find fine objects of art imaginatively displayed all over the hotels. Besides having excellent taste, the couple is equally passionate about the environment and though Malabar Escapes is the last word on a luxurious, stylish holiday in Kerala – their properties have very good eco-credentials.
“It is the cashmere tracksuit of boutique hotels.” Best of Asia 2007, Best Boutique Hotel, TIME Magazine, November 2004
“Perhaps the grandest boutique hotel in India. It’s ideally sited for water tours of Kerala, Jew town, local food and antique markets.” Vogue Travel & Entertainment
“Why not head for the inventive and sophisticated Malabar House?” Condé Nast Traveller, UK
