After the Portuguese had left and India had gained Independence, Goans breathed a sigh of relief and thought they could get back to their lives of good food, sunshine and feni (a gut wrenchingly strong local alcohol made from cashew nut). It was short lived. Far away in Europe, hundreds of young people had already embarked on their trip of a lifetime, aboard the famous Magic Bus. And, as always, Goa was where their search for paradise ended. To be more specific, it was a tiny virgin beach called Anjuna on the northern coast of the state.
Suddenly there were hippies from Haight-Ashbury to London to Iran(!) living under coconut trees or crashing in with villagers. They couldn’t believe their luck – beautiful, untouched beaches, cheap food and drink and most of all, a relatively liberal, easy-going local attitude to it all. Overnight, there were naked white people hanging out on the beach and week-long acid parties that spawned a whole new culture – with its own music (Goa trance), own patrons (they were later called the ‘Goa Freaks’) and a whole new way of thinking. It was the start of the concept of ‘going Glocal’.
And they never left. North Goa (or north of Panjim) is now an aging Mecca for hippies young and old from around the world. It still retains its free spiritedness, its open tolerance (especially when compared to the rest of India) and peace, love, truth and brotherhood still reign true. Of course, nudity is now illegal (though still practiced in the far north!) and the parties are now commercial, sponsored events (unless you know where to look!). The craziness of their idealism might have subsided but it has only taken up form in a newer way. Now, places that were ‘freak hangouts’ have become acclaimed yoga centres. North Goa is now the new age capital of India. You name it and you’ll find it – there are crystal healing workshops to authentic Shiatsu massages; past life regression to natural birthing centres. The old first- timers now bring their babies back with them and have long soulful vacations by the beach where the most blasphemous thing to happen might be the price of their very posh meal!
Highlights
- Excellent international cuisine, often organic.
- Great music and nightlife – clubs, concerts, DJ’s and international live acts
- A wide variety of New Age workshops and therapies from renowned therapists from around the world.
- Great shopping for the urban nomad – the flea markets are worth a visit even if you don’t want to do any shopping!
Calangute/Baga
It’s hard to tell where Calangute ends and Baga begins, geographically at least. Be prepared to (literally) rub elbows with throngs of young Indians and aging Europeans on the back to back beach-beds and loud shacks. Even the sea can feel a bit crowded here with the plethora of water-sports on offer. Baga is quickly becoming one of the most famous party hotspots in India, making this stretch Goa’s most congested tourist scene.
Anjuna/Vagator
This is where the first tie-dyed ‘60’s refugee first landed in search for freedom, sunshine and a different way of life. Some never left and their spirit is still alive and kicking on the hundreds of raised chillums that greet the sunset on the beachfront every evening. Come here for the fabulous restaurants and the famous Wednesday flea market.
Morjim/Aswem/Mandrem
This is where everyone from the other beaches escapes to when the action gets too much. You will still find secluded beaches (if you don’t count the odd yoga practitioner), friendly locals and total quiet by evening. Of course, there are now a splattering of beach shacks and an excellent French restaurant completing the experience wonderfully.
North Goa Beaches