Plonked right in the middle of the desert, a city surrounded by acres of unrelieved sand, unyielding earth its only companion… or so you would think, till you reach Jaisalmer. It isn’t the desert that dominates your sight, or the brilliant sunlight glancing off the sands. It is, in fact, the sheer splash of colour that greets you here, in this desert town, resplendent in all its multihued beauty, an abiding mystery to tourists. It cuts a pretty picture, this town so like an oasis in the midst of rugged splendour. And adding to the beauty are the wood- and stone-carved mansions and buildings that the Rajput rulers of yore built.
The city was founded by Rajput king, Bhatti Rajput Rawal Jaisal way back in 1156. It has played important roles through its several centuries long existence and in its current avatar as rural exotica, the city lures tourists in droves. A remote location in a remote part of the state, Jaisalmer is thinly populated compared to other cities of Rajasthan. Its weather conditions too have contributed to its scant population, with burning hot summers. It is normal for the temperature to climb past 45 degrees during summer. So the best time for a visit – and visit it you must – is during the pleasant winters, from November to February.
Sights to see
Though the Thar Desert may somewhat fill your sight and give the illusion of being the be all and end all of the desert city, Jaisalmer is more, much more than its undulating sand dunes. The place, during the late medieval and early modern periods, was dominated by rich Jain merchants, who constructed great havelis(mansions), which stand to this day. And where Rajputs lived can forts be far behind?
Jaisalmer Fort
This is the second-oldest fort of Rajasthan, located on Trikuta Hills and has a 250-foot high pedestal. There are five beautiful palaces inside the fort –Sarvottam Vilas, Akhai Vilas, Gaj Mahal, Rang Mahal and Moti Mahal. Beautiful-looking and extremely strong jali or latticework screens have been put up to protect the interiors from the fierce heat and desert winds. Rang Mahal, the most popular of the palaces has some exquisite mural paintings.
Jain Temples
The wealthy Jain merchants who made this city their home also gave it some exquisite temples dedicated to Rishabhdevji, Sambhavanathji and Ashthapadi. The ornamentation of the temples has been done in the style of the Dilwara temple at another famous Rajasthan tourist spot, Mount Abu. There is also an emerald icon of Mahavira inside the temple premises.
The Desert Culture Centre and Museum has an impressive collection of traditional items, including old coins, different kinds of textiles and traditional Rajasthani instruments. Some fossils found in the desert are also displayed here.
Havelis
The havelis, built in sandstone and carved to perfection, are the best specimens to be found anywhere in the state. Havelis of Jaisalmer depict the prosperity of the Jain merchants and the luxury of living a comfortable life. Some of the more popular havelis are:
The Salem Singh Ki Haveli, named after the erstwhile Prime Minister of Jaisalmer – Salem Singh who built it, is located towards the eastern end of the city is a breathtaking building with a rich blue roof, peacock-shaped carved brackets and its exteriors are delicately carved. Built with yellow stone, the haveli has a balcony projecting from the top storey.
Patwon Ki Haveli is one of its kind in Jaisalmer. The haveli was built by the family of a rich merchant, Guman Chand Patwa, who stated work on it in 1800 AD. After six decades of sweat and hard work, the mansion was all ready to tower over the city. This mega-structure, with intricately carved façade with pillars and balconies is one picture worth preserving for posterity. It has an open-air museum and has preserved the heritage of the rich merchant class and the architecture of Rajasthan.
Nathmal Ki Haveli was originally built by two brothers and features two distinct compounds. The boundary however, has been dissolved by a common façade at the front. It reflects the architecture and bears some amount of resemblance to the popular buildings made by the erstwhile Muslim rulers.
Excursions from Jaisalmer
Desert National Park
What would be the main attraction of a city whose approach is by desert, is located in the heart of the desert and is surrounded by desert? At first guess, it would be desert. The Desert National Park is widely different from a usual park and has an important role to play in maintaining the ecological balance of the region.
It is the largest park in Rajasthan, sprawled over an area of 3,162 square km. Around one fifth of the park is covered with sand dunes, while the rest of the landmass comprises craggy rocks, compact salt lakes bottoms, inter-medial areas and fixed dunes. Attractions here are the flora, with only few grasses and shrubs that provide food for the wildlife inhabitants of the park; the animals, including the desert fox, Bengal fox, desert cat, wolf, hedgehog, black buck and chinkara; the reptiles, spiny tail lizard, monitor lizard, Russel’s viper, chameleons and Sind krait; birds, which is the main reason that the park is attractive to tourists. The winged wonders here are the great Indian bustard which is a protected species in India, sand grouse, partridges, bee eaters, larks, shrikes, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel, vultures, short-toed eagles, tawny eagles, spotted eagles and lagger. Demoiselle cranes and houbara flock to this park in the winter months.
The best way to explore this park is by a jeep safari. You can also camp out here, which is perhaps the best way to enjoy the wildlife.
Lodurva, at a distance of 16 km from Jaisalmer, is popular for its ruins, monuments and grand artificial reservoir, Amar Sagar. It is also a spot frequented by the rarely spotted peacocks.
Akal Wood Fossil Park transports tourists back to the pre-historic period. This 21-hectare park has some priceless collections – fossilized logs of trees and innumerable trunks dating back to many thousand years.
Sam in the midst of the desert and easily accessible from Jaisalmer is also worth a visit. Here, one can see and even touch patterns carved out by winds on the sand. Best enjoyed on camel back.
Camel Safari in Jaisalmer
The hump-back of Jaisalmer, the ubiquitous camel, will make your visit here memorable. If you succeed in getting on, there is nothing that can quite compare with the high of travelling through the desert on camel back. Most camel safaris originate at Jaisalmer. You can even travel from Jaisalmer to the city of Bikaner on camel back.
Desert Festival
Every winter, the empty sands around Jaisalmer come alive with the colour, music and laughter of the Desert Festival. An experience not to be missed for a quick lesson on the history, culture and tradition of a place frozen in time.
Shopping in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is famous for embroidery works, Rajasthani mirrorwork, rugs, blankets and antiques. Tourists can also find silver jewellery and carpets made from camel hair in Jaisalmer.
Getting There
By air
Jodhpur is the nearest airport from Jaisalmer.
By rail
Although the railway is not very well developed, there is direct metre gauge service between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Jaisalmer is also one of he major stops en route luxury trains, the Palace on Wheels and Royal Orient Express.
By road
Regular deluxe bus services are available to Jaisalmer from Jodhpur. Buses also operate from national capital Delhi and other cities of Rajasthan.
Getting Around
The city is small and can easily covered by foot. You can also rent bikes to explore the city and its surroundings and for the true desert experience, the studiously nonchalant camel is ever-present and ever-ready.