Today’s breed of urban warriors have their work cut out for them. Traversing the length and breadth of a city, manoeuvering the bylanes of the concrete jungle, fight their way through crowds, use every weapon in their arsenal to get through the work day and return home, tired and sometimes defeated, hoping for an island of peace in the midst of routine chaos.
For the island-dwelling folk of the far-flung Andaman and Nicobar islands, this is as alien as it gets. Peaceful, self-contained, surrounded by the deep waters of the Bay of Bengal, part of India, but not… part of this world, but not….
Superb beaches running along shores of deep blue seas which are home to some of the world’s most breathtaking coral reefs, an enigmatic past, relics from a forgotten era, this once-feared ‘Alcatraz’ of British Imperialism is a treasure whose appeal keeps multiplying the more you explore it. You literally, can’t get enough of these islands located 100 km off the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. It is a place removed from reality, our very own Atlantis, a world untouched by the concretisation of its cultural ethos.
Not for nothing are they called Emerald Isles – one look at their lush landscape can make any place go green with envy!
Geography
The Andaman and Nicobar islands are a set of 572 islands, big and small, islets and rocks in the southeastern part of the Bay of Bengal, lying along an arc in a long and narrow broken chain, approximately covering a distance nearly 800 km.
Their distance from other countries is: 150 km north of Aceh in Indonesia, and separated from Thailand and Myanmar by the Andaman Sea.
The Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands are separated from each other by a channel, the Ten Degree Channel, about 150 km wide, with the Andamans to the north of this latitude, and the Nicobars to the south.
The northernmost point of the Andaman and Nicobars group is 901 km away from the mouth of the Hoogly River. The southernmost island is Great Nicobar; its southernmost point, Indira Point, lies only 150 km from Sumatra in Indonesia. The capital of the union territory is Port Blair
Andaman & Nicobar Islands are blessed with a unique tropical rainforest scape, made of a mixed flora with elements from Indian, Myanmarese, Malaysian and other native floral strains. So far, about 2,200 varieties of plants have been recorded, out of which 200 are endemic and 1,300 are not found in mainland India.
The south Andaman forests have a profusion of “epiphytic” vegetation, mostly ferns and orchids. The central Andaman harbours mostly moist deciduous forests. To the north, the Andaman islands are characterised by wet evergreen vgeetation, with plenty of woody climbers.
The north Nicobar Islands (including Car Nicobar and Battimalv) are marked by the complete absence of evergreen forests, while such forests form the dominant vegetation in the central and southern islands of the Nicobar group. Grasslands occur only in the Nicobars, and while deciduous forests are common in the Andamans, they are almost absent in the Nicobars.
Climate
Located as it is in the middle of nowhere surrounded by endless water, the islands have a moderate climate, with sea breezes keeping the temperatures stubbornly within the 23°C to 31°C range. Humidity stays constant at around 80 per cent through the year. The southwest monsoons come to the islands between roughly mid-May and early October, and the northeast monsoons between November and December.
When To Go
The best time to visit is between December and early April, when the days are warm, but not oppressively so, and the nights are a contrastingly pleasant.
History
It’s almost like the islands plonked in the middle of the Bay of Bengal along with the British, so little is known about Andaman and Nicobar. A British survey of these islands conducted in 1777 states that these islands were occupied by Negritos and the Mongoloids for several centuries. Another record of the first inhabitants was apparently documented in the second century by Greek astronomer Ptolemy, and again in the seventh century by Chinese monk Xuan Zang during his 17-year journey through India. Then records dive right into the late 17th century, when outsider came and settled in. Around this time, the islands were annexed by the Marathas, whose empire at the time consumed vast areas of India.
Two centuries later the British found a use for them as a jail, Kalapaani to detain fugitives and freedom fighters. During WWII, the islands were occupied by the Japanese.
The early history of Nicobar is even less known, although these islands were believed to be familiar to traders in ancient times, given their close proximity to the trade route to the Far East. Though little is known about Portuguese activities in these islands, Portuguese influence is evident in the Nicobarese language also reflects a few Portuguese words.
Following Independence in 1947, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands were incorporated into the Indian Union. Since then, the population explosion from massive migration has only added a few thousand more to the population of more than 3,50,000.
People
In these islands people of all faiths – Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Sikhs – and of all languages live together in complete peace and harmony. Inter-religion and inter-regional marriages are common. This amazing racial and cultural mix is correctly described as Mini-India. The descendants of the first inhabitants too continue living here. These are the folks who in fact have stitched together the economic, social and cultural fabric of these islands which has lured tourists from around the world.
The tribes found in the islands include the Shompens, the Onges, the Sentinelese, the Jarawas and the Great Andamanese. The Shompens found in the Nicobar Island are believed to be descendants of the Mongoloid people who we some of the first inhabitants. The other folk too are descendants of early settlers and people the Andaman islands.
People from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Mynamar and South Indians from Tamil Nadu and Kerala have come to live in Andaman for last few decades.
Given that fishing is the main source of livelihood, sea food would be the staple cuisine and on the islands, the sheer variety will hold fish eaters spellbound, from lobsters, prawns and several other sea-fish dishes. Most of the islands hotels offer delicious sea fish dishes at a reasonable price.
Vegetarians don’t despair. The high amount of migration that took place early in the post-independence era has heavily influenced Andamanese cuisine, just like many other aspects of the island culture. Influences of diverse cultures from the north to the south all have had a strong impact on the traditional food, which is tasty and spicy.
The islands aren’t called Emerald Isles for no reason – the reserved and protected forests extend over 86 per cent area of the territory and the forest cover is more than 92 per cent. About 50 per cent of the forests have been set aside as tribal reserves, national parks and wildlife sanctuaries. Luxuriant mangroves, perhaps the richest in the world, occupy nearly 5 per cent of the territory. More than 150 indigenous plant and animal species call these islands home. The Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park is rich in corals, different varieties of coloured fish and sea turtles, besides other marine life. It is a bird paradise as well, with over 271 varieties of birds nestling down amid the trees here. The megapode, swiftlet, hornbill and Nicobar pigeon are some of the specialties of the islands.
The best ay to make your holiday interesting would be to use the tried and tested route – by sea. You can take a boat from Chennai or Kolkata. It’s a long journey and you’ll need to plan ahead as there’s usually only one or two sailings a fortnight from each mainland city. If you’re a last-minute type or a restless soul, make like a bird and fly.
By Sea
There are usually four to six sailings a month between the capital of the Andaman islands, Port Blair and the Indian mainland – fortnightly from Kolkata and weekly from Chennai on four vessels. The service from Chennai goes via Cap Nicobar once a month, taking an extra two days, but only residents of the Nicobar islands are permitted to disembark. There is usually a service once a month from Vishakapatnam in Andhra Pradesh.
By Air
Indian Airlines, as well as private air carriers fly daily to Port Blair from metros such as Chennai, Kolkata and New Delhi.
Neil Island (36 kms. from Port Blair)
This beautiful island with lush green forest and sandy beaches is the vegetable bowl of Andamans. Connected by boat from Port Blair four days a week, it provides an ideal holiday for eco-friendly tourists. Hawabill Nest guesthouse of the Directorate of Tourism is situated here (Tel: 82630). One can feel the sincerity and serenity of village life here. Beautiful beaches at Laxmanpur, Bharatpur, Sitapur and the bridge formation on the sea-shore (Howra bridge) are the attractions.
Long Island (82 kms. from Port Blair)
Connected by boat four times a week from Phoenix Bay Jetty, this island offers an excellent sandy beach at Lalaji Bay, unpolluted environment and evergreen forests. The sea around the island is frequented by dolphin convoys. Lalaji bay, 6 kms. away from the boat jetty, is accessible by 15 minutes journey in dinghies or trekking through the forest. Directorate of Tourism offers island camping during season.
Rangat (170 kms. by road and 90 kms. by sea)
One can enjoy the quiet village life and solitude of virgin nature here. You can also breathe unpolluted air, a rare commodity for the city dweller. Cutbert Bay beach (20 kms. away from Rangat bazar/jetty) is a turtle nesting ground. One can view the nesting of turtles during December – February season. Hawksbill Nest, guest house of the Directorate of Tourism, is near to the Cutbert bay beach and Turtle sanctuary. Panchavati waterfall and Amkunj beach are on the way to Cutbert bay. One can go to Mayabunder and Diglipur from here.
Mayabunder (242 kms. by road/136 kms. by sea)
Situated in the northern part of Middle Andaman, Mayabunder offers excellent scenic beauty and beautiful beaches. Inhabited by the settlers from Burma, East Pakistan and ex-convicts, Mayabunder has a distinct culture. Beach at Avis Island (30 minutes boat journey from Mayabunder), Karmatang beach (13 kms.) and mangrove lined creeks are the attractions. Karmatang beach is also a turtle nesting ground. One can view nesting of turtles during December-February season. Swiftlet Nest guest house of the Directorate of Tourism (Tel: 73495) is very near to the Karmatang beach. One can go to Kalighat (for Diglipur) by boat from here.
Diglipur (290 kms by road/180 kms. by sea)
Situated in North Andaman Island, Diglipur provides a rare experience for eco-friendly tourists. It is famous for its oranges, rice and marine life. Saddle Peak, 732 metres, the highest point in the islands is nearby. Kalpong, the only river of Andaman flows from here. The first hydroelectric project of the islands is coming upon this river. One who comes by road from Port Blair has to take a boat from Mayabunder to Kalighat and from there journey by road to Diglipur (25 kms.), and from there to Kalipur (18 kms.) for viewing, Kalipur and Lamiya bay beaches. Directorate of Tourism provides comfortable accommodation at Turtle Resort, Kalipur. The Water Sports Centre is near by. Those who want to go for trekking to Saddle Peak can collect trekking equipments on hire from Turtle Resort and start trekking from Kalipur.
Ram Nagar beach (15 kms. away from Kalighat) is famous for Turtle nesting during December – February season. One who comes by boat from Port Blair will reach Aerial bay jetty, which is very near to places like Diglipur and Kalipur.
Ross and Smith, the twin islands joined by a bewitching sand bar, is 30 minutes away from Aerial bay jetty or Kalipur water sports centre. Directorate of Tourism offers island camping at Smith island during the tourist season. One can feel the innocent beauty of village life everywhere in Diglipur. One who prefers to be away from the hustle and humdrum of urban life must come here to enjoy unhurried holidays. Saddle peak is popular for trekking/nature trail through the evergreen rain forest. Kalighat is connected by daily two boat services from Mayabunder. Port Blair – Diglipur (Aerial bay jetty) boat services are available twice a week.
Little Andaman Island (120 kms. by sea)
This island has a beautiful beach at Butler Bay, a waterfall and plantation of oil palms. Apart from this there are several sandy beaches all along the coastline of the island. The break water at Hut Bay offers an excellent view to the tourists. Little Andaman is the vegetable bowl for the Nicobar group of islands. The Onge tribals live in this island, so do Nicobarese apart from settlers from erstwhile East Pakistan and other places. However entry to tribal areas is restricted. Journey 8 hrs. by sea from Port Blair towards south.
Comprising of 28 Islands, with an area of 1,841 sq.Kms. the Nicobar Islands are separated from Andamans by the Ten Degree Channel.. The Nicobars abound in coconut-palm, casuarina and pandanus. Great and Little Nicobar have the Giant Robber Crab, Monkeys with long tail, Nicobarese Pigeons in plenty. Megapode, a rare bird is found in Great Nicobar. The southernmost tip of India is not Kanyakumari as has till recently been considered, it is INDIRA POINT in Great Nicobar Island. Nicobar group is out of bounds for foreigners at present. Indians may be given permission in exceptional cases on application.
Car Nicobar: (Area 126.9 sq. km., Distance 270 kms. by sea)
A rustling fan, Car Nicobar is the headquarters of Nicobar District. It is a flat fertile island covered with cluster of coconut palms and enchanting beaches with a roaring sea all around. The Nicobari huts, built on stilts having entrance through floor with a wooden, ladder, are unique to this island. 16 hrs. journey by sea from Port Blair.
Katchal (425 kms. by sea)
Katchal is a tiny island in the Nicobar group. It was this island, which heralded the new millennium with the first sunrise on 1st January 2000. This island has beautiful beaches at East bay, Jhula and West bay.
Great Nicobar (540 kms. by sea)
The southern end of the Nicobars, this island has Indira Point (formerly Pygmallion Point) the southern most tip of India. The beach near Galathia is the nesting ground for Gaint Leather Back Turtles. This island also has biosphere reserve area. 50-60 hrs. journey by sea from Port Blair.