The world has moved on, the past lays buried beneath tall sky-scrapers, glass and steel edifices, sleek concrete and urban madness. But in some parts, there are still pockets of the past – preserved in a nostalgic memory, a happy remembrance… or a small city in a corner of the world that feels like you may have walked into the pages of history itself. Bikaner, to the north-west of Rajasthan, harks back to the good old days. Set on elevated lands, the city’s old part is surrounded by walls that run around it for 7 km and marked by fives entrance gates.
Founded by the Rathore Prince, Rao Bikaji, in the year 1488, Bikaner went by the name Jangladesh, and was a landscape populated by uninhabited desert lands. Today, Bikaner is famous as ‘The Camel Country’ and offers best camel rides in the world. The sand dunes, stretched out in artistic patterns is a common sight at Bikaner. Add to this unique music, dance performances and the place turns out to be fantasy land.
Sights to See
Tourist sights spread across the city much like the land itself – eye-catching, ubiquitous and unmissable.
The medieval fort, Junagarh Fort, was built by Raja Rai Singh in the year 1587 AD. With its huge towers and battlements, the fort has remained conquered through its existence. This fort has 37 palaces with marvellous mirrorwork, temples and pavilions.
Lalgarh Palace was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh, and has been made in Rajputana, Mughal and European styles of architecture. Built in red sandstone, the palace has been converted into a grand hotel.
The Laxmi Niwas Palace, the former residential palace of Maharajah Ganga Singh, was designed by the British architect, Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob in 1902 and completed in 1926. Part of the Lalgarh Palace, it has been built in the Indo-Saracenic style, and is now a luxury hotel.
Devi Kund is the site of the cenotaphs built in the memory of the Bika Royal Family. The cenotaphs are built in Rajputani style and feature open canopies and several tombs.
The Ganga Government Museum, also called the Ganga Golden Jubilee Museum, exhibits the hunting trophies of the erstwhile Maharajas, wooden and metal crafts, glass artifacts, gilded paintings and some more artefacts.
The Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary is situated about 32 km from the city, on the Jaisalmer Road. It is inhabited by wild boars, deer, antelopes, black bucks, desert foxes, hares and hundreds of bird species. The migratory water birds are a special highlight.
Karni Mata Temple, 32 km from Bikaner, is a temple of a local deity, “Karni Mata”. It is believed that the “Karni Mata” used to take care of the Rajputana family. This temple has a rat infestation but the locals believe them to be holy. you will likely be told that seeing a certain white rat is very auspicious!
Shivbari Temple is a centuries-old Shiva temple and has two huge bawris (water reservoirs).
Gajner Palace near Bikaner is an incomparable jewel in the Thar Desert is built on the embankment of a lake. Built by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner, this Grand Heritage property is spread over 6,000 acres.
Festivals
The Camel Festival
Given that there are as many camels in the city as there are people, can it be any surprise that the city hosts a Camel Festival every year in January. A popular tourist attraction, the Camel Festival sees camels decorated in various ornaments and clothes! Event held include a camel dance, acrobatics, a ‘Best Breed’ competition and a tug-of-war contest. A sight worth seen, and once seen, difficult forgetting!
Getting There
By Air
The nearest airport to Bikaner is Jodhpur, 247 km away. There are regular flights to Jodhpur from major cities in India. From Jodhpur, you can hire a car or a taxi to reach Bikaner.
By Rail
Bikaner is connected with railway lines to several destinations, including Jaipur, Jodhpur, Churu and Delhi. Trains regularly ply between these stations.
By Bus
Short- and long-distance buses ply to the city. The bus stand to the north of the city sees a regular arrival and departure of the buses. Long-distance buses journey between the city and destinations like Ajmer, Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Kota and Udaipur.
Get Around
The best way to travel within the city is trishaws and tongas (horse carts) as the streets are too narrow and busy for cars. There is also the additional problem of sandstorms, a frequent occurrence, which can get clogged with sand. The trishaws and tongas are very cheap and a day’s hire shouldn’t cost more than Rs 250. Bicycles too are an option and can be hired near the railway station.