The lord who would love to take credit for having discovered this serene little hill station would have – possibly – stood on a hilltop, arms widespread, surveying with satisfaction and barely contained joy, the little slice of paradise over which he held sway. Or not. Lord Dalhousie would have turned up his nose at such vulgar displays of joy, but he did christen this haven he founded after his illustrious family name, no doubt in the hope of immortalising the name of his forefathers till kingdom come. Or at least till the orders to pack and leave were issued. And so Dalhousie was born, in the year of 1854, a home far away from the Englishmen’s home in the native land over which the empire ruled.
The English visited this place for their summer vacations, a tradition that has been perpetuated by their Indian counterparts and the tourists who visit. The bungalows here are all made in the English style. The modern town is situated among the five hills, facing the Pir Panjal range of snow-capped and pristine mountains, surrounded by thick forests of pine and deodar trees.
Things to See
Dalhousie is a quiet, enchanting spot high up in the northern reaches of India, panacea for the soul, a peaceful balm over stressed minds and hearts. While there is plenty to do, see and experience, Dalhousie exudes an old-world charm and it seems like it hasn’t quite caught up with the rest of the world yet.
Gobind Sagar Lake The view is flawless from Dilniwas, Upper Bakrota, Dalhousie Khajjiar. A stunning valley with a spring in the middle, while being quite beautiful, and is crammed with tourists during the peak season of July.
Dainkund Walk A gentle, sloping walk near an Air Force base in Dalhousie, it will give those legs a gentle workout before it culminates at a Hindu temple.
Upper Bakrota The highest area in Dalhousie, it has a number of estates, a residential school, and an army barracks at the top. The area is encircled by a road called Bakrota Walk, on the way to Khajjiar which ends at Alah Water Tank, the main water tank in the area. Incidentally, it was the preferred destination of the landed gentry of Punjab during the Raj, now populated by similar residents from the new India. Some of the houses are worth seeing, but are mostly on private gated estates.
Kala Tope Rest House On the way to Khajjiar at the toll barrier for Kala Tope, this government rest house is on the road to the left of the barrier, and makes for a nice, quiet picnic spot. The three-km route through dense pine forests from Lakkadmandi to Kala Tope is simply exhilarating. No cars are allowed on this three-km route.
Ganji Pahadi Walk It is called – very imaginatively – Ganji Pahadi (ganji means bald, pahadi means hill), because there are no trees on the summit of the hill and it looks like it’s got a bald patch at the top! You can ask a local how to get there. It is a long walk of at least an hour, but quite pleasant.
Subhash Chowk This is the spot (chowk means intersection) where the road from the bus stand makes a crossroad between the two roads to the GPO and the one coming in from the bus stand.
Chamba A major district town a little distance away from Dalhousie and is the seat of the former princely state of Chamba, and home to many attractions in its own right.
Kalatop Wildlife Reserve Recognised as a game sanctuary on July 1, 1949, Kalatop Sanctuary lies between Dalhousie and Chamba at the northwestern extremity Daula Dhar. Kalatop is at an altitude of 2440 meters, and it is 8.5 kilometers from the GPO. The Dalhousie-Chamba Road runs through the sanctuary, which contains about 15 villages. In 1982-1983, there was a total of 1,766 people living inside the sanctuary. This reserve covers an area of 3,069 hectares. Its altitude varies from 1,185 metres to 2768 metres. The terrain is steep and typical of the Outer Himalayas. It is drained by several tributaries of the Ravi River which lies just to the north. There is also a lake at Khajjiar. Khajjiar, Kalatop, Dain Kund, Lakarmandi and Bara Pathar are the tourist attractions that fall in this sanctuary. From Gandhi Chowk, a steep, uphill walk will take you to the scenic Bakrota Circle. After walking about two kilometres, the road to this sanctuary starts near the Municipal Water Resivoir. From Lakarmandi, a road through the dense forest leads to the Kalatop Forest Resthouse. This is a perfect spot for a weekend retreat. The panoramic views of Pir Panjal Range and countryside are breathtaking.
Don’t forget to pack a picnic basket: there are a lot of open, empty spots where one can sit and enjoy a meal and a good view.
Things to do
While the disco-lovin’, party-hoppin’ crowds may avoid Dalhousie like a retirement home it most definitely is not, the discerning tourist has a lot to look forward to, with high mountains and low valleys that dip and trough in an undulating landscape, offering great outdoor opportunities. Places like Panchpula are known for trekking. There are waterfalls, places to trek, sit down, relax, and experience nature. It is five kilometers from the GPO.
Dalhousie Chowk You have the option of a bus, cab or car but your trusty two-footer – those attached limbs we mean – are the best way to enjoy what is a marvellous experience. This place registered its name in history, as here is the memorial of Amar Ajit Singh, uncle of freedom fighter Shaheed Bhagat Singh.
The Tibetan market is a fun excursion, with wonderous things to look at if you can resist the temptation to dip into your pockets.
Getting There
The trip to Dalhousie is a long one if you are heading from Delhi.
By Rail
Take the overnight train to Pathankot (about 10 hours). It is a 2–3 hour drive from Pathankot to Dalhousie. The options for overnight trains are Delhi-Pathankot or the Delhi-Chakki Bank train. Chakki Bank is only 4 km away from Pathankot.
By Road
There are frequent bus services from Pathankot to Dalhousie. There is also a bus that plies daily from Delhi. A taxi from Pathankot will set you back a pretty penny, so think twice about hiring one, and if you do, then use one from a reputed, reliable company.
There are also local buses to Kangra, Dharamsala, Khajjiar and Chamba, with the added benefit of having a scenic route on offer for passengers.
By Air
The nearest airports are:
Pathankot, 75 km away, with one flight from Delhi.
Jammu, at 180 km. There are regular flights from Jammu to Delhi and many other destinations.
Amritsar, 5 hours away by bus.
Getting Around
The greatest activity in Dalhousie is on and around the three level Malls, which were laid in the early 1860s for promenades, carriages, horses and dandies. These roads and the steeper by-lanes which connect them to the bus stand are still the arteries of the town. The Malls around Moti Tibba and Potreyn hills are the most popular among the tourists as the two are level and most of the business activity and hotels are around them. Dalhousie’s third and highest mall was built around the Upper Bakrota hill, nearly a 1,000 feet above the GPO, and affords extensive views.
The main mode of transport is a car or motorcycle; since it can get very cold in the evening, a car is recommended. Pony rides on mules, locally known as khachhars, are available in GPO and Khajjiar, but this is mostly a recreational activity rather than a functional one.
Walking around Dalhousie is a good option, but to see Khajjiar and Chamba you will have to hire some kind of transport. Taxis to these destinations are easily available from the main market.