There ain’t no mountain high enough….to keep me from getting to you. You would imagine this is a promise to a lost love, separated over unscalable hills, and in a way, it is. It’s a paean by a worldweary traveller in honour of nature’s ultimate resting place on Earth. A place for every soul seeking succour. Anyone who sets their eyes on Himachal Pradesh falls in love with it. Nestled in the northwest region of the western arm of the Himalayas, the abode of nature’s bountiful bounty, a region rich with history, legend, myth, what have you, this Devbhmui (Land of the Gods) is appropriately the home in exile for His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. It is a visitor’s mecca, where you go to seek peace… and find it.
Geography
This beautiful hill state is landlocked with the Tibetan plateau to the east, Jammu and Kashmir to the north, Haryana to the south and Punjab to the west. And yet, despite being in a geographic cluster, its topography is distinct and breathtaking in its sheer diversity. From vast tracts of high-altitude trans-Himalayan desert to dense green deodar forests, from apple orchards to cultivated terraces, from snow-capped mountain ranges to snow-fed lakes and gushing rivers, Himachal is nature preening in her best and brightest.
Himalayan rivers crisscross the entire chain of mountains; in fact the rivers are older than the mountain system. Himachal Pradesh provides water to both the Indus and Ganges basins. The drainage systems of the region are the Chandra Bhaga or the Chenab, Ravi, Beas, Sutlej and Yamuna, perennial rivers fed by snow and rainfall. They are protected by an extensive cover of natural vegetation.
The altitude of Himachal Pradesh ranges from about 350 metres to a breathless 7,000 metres above sea level. It can broadly be divided into three zones – the outer Himalayas or the Shivaliks, the inner or the middle Himalayas and the greater Himalayas or the Alpines. The Shivaliks include the districts of Hamirpur, Kangra, Una, Bilaspur and the lower parts of Solan, Sirmaur and Mandi. The altitude ranges between 350 metres to 1500 metres and the rainfall in this zone ranges between 150 cm to 175 cm. The middle region includes the parts of Sirmaur and Mandi and parts of Kangra, Shimla and Chamba and experiences rainfall between 75 cm to 100 cm. This zone remains under snow for almost six months. The Alpine zone is at an altitude of 4,500 metres and beyond and comprises the Kinnnaur and Pangi districts of Chamba and some parts of Lahaul and Spiti.
Climate
There is great variation in the climatic conditions of Himachal due to extreme variation in elevation. The climate varies from hot and sub-humid tropical in the southern tracts to cold, alpine and glacial in the northern and eastern mountain ranges with more elevation. Summer lasts from mid-April till the end of June and most parts become very hot.
The state’s lower reaches can get hot and humid during summers, with temperatures touching 38° C. The Kangra and Kullu valleys, and Chamba and Shimla get rains from June till mid-September, just like the rest of the country. In the north, Lahaul-Spiti does not receive any rainfall and consequently have a dry desert-type climate. Winters are cold, with most of the higher reaches getting heavy snowfall.
History
You would imagine that a place referred to as ‘Devbhumi’ would have had gods as its original inhabitants, a heavenly paradise as it were, right here on Earth. While the flight of fancy does have the element of unreality to do justice to these spellbinding vistas, the earliest known inhabitants of the region were tribals called Dasas, pushed northwards into the hills by the people of the Indus Valley Civilisation in the second and third millennia. Apart from being called Dasas, they were also variously referred to as Nishadas, Kinnars, Nagas or Yakshas. Subsequently, Mongoloid tribes like the Bhotias and Kiratas moved in from the Tibetan plateau to establish a distinctively different society. When the Aryans crossed over into the Indian subcontinent and spread into the corners of the land and formed confederations called the Janapadas.
Because of the hilly terrain, no single ruler could hold sway over the entire region. However, the medieval dynasties of the Guptas and the Vardhanas captured major parts of Himachal Pradesh from the second to the fifth centuries AD. The great Mauryan king Ashoka is said to have introduced Buddhism to the state; till today, visitors will be able to see remnants of his religious missions in the valleys. Gradually, Rajput warrior clans established supremacy in the Brahmaur and Chamba regions to the northwest and local chieftains called the Ranas and Thakurs ruled over small areas of the state.
From the 11th century, this area faced repeated assaults by Muslim invaders, including Mahmud of Ghazni, Timurlane, Sikandar Lodhi, Tughlaqs and finally, the Mughals. To gain protection from the invaders, the ruler of Sirmaur invited the Sikhs to settle in the foothills in 1695. Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Guru of the Sikhs, settled at the Paonta Sahib along with his disciples. Under the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, many of the western states, Kullu and the Spiti Valley came under Sikh rule.
After the decline of the Mughals, the Katoch Rajputs established their rule in the state of Kangra. Maharaja Sansar Chand, the most powerful ruler of this dynasty, expanded his territory and developed Kangra as a centre for excellence in art and culture. He ruled for nearly half a century, and was ultimately defeated in 1806 by invading Gurkhas from Nepal. The Gurkhas also pushed back the Sikhs in their ambition to expand Nepal’s boundaries. The local chieftains went to the British for help, resulting in the Anglo-Gurkha and Anglo-Sikh wars. While the Gurkhas were pushed back, in 1846 the British signed a peace treaty with the Sikhs. Having removed the intruding armies, the British themselves annexed the southern and western parts of Himachal Pradesh, and in 1864, the hill town of Shimla was chosen as the summer capital of the British government.
Throughout all these upheavals, the desert regions of Lahaul-Spiti remained isolated throughout this struggle for power and developed closer links with Tibet. The region came under the Jos rulers who encouraged trade with Lhasa and Samarkand. Later, the kings of Kullu annexed this region. Throughout India’s independence movement most of the princely states of Himachal Pradesh remained detached.
After independence, 30 princely states of the area were united and Himachal Pradesh was formed and about two decades later, in the late 1960s, certain areas belonging to Punjab were included in Himachal Pradesh. On January 25, 1971, Himachal Pradesh became a full-fledged state.
People
Inhabited largely by semi-nomadic tribes like the Gaddis, Gujjars, Kinnars, Lahaulis and Pangwals, the land has been influenced by many cross-cultural streams that developed distinct identities in each region of Himachal Pradesh. In 1959, when the Tibetan spiritual head Dalai Lama fled Lhasa after Chinese occupation, he set up his official residence in Dharamshala, northern Himachal Pradesh. Ever since, there has been a regular stream of refugees crossing over into India. A large Tibetan settlement, complete with schools, hostels, health centre and Buddhist shrines have grown around the Dalai Lama’s palace.
Fiercely proud of their heritage, the Himachali people are at the same time, open and accepting of other cultural influences as well. The people are warm, hospitable and helpful and wonderful hosts. The tribal folk follow a form of religion in which distinctions of caste and class are more fluid than the inherent and often misrepresented caste system prevalent in India. The women are extremely hardworking, taking care of daily chores in the house as well as toiling in the fields.
Himachal Pradesh has a majority of Hindus, though the northern parts bordering Tibet have a strong Buddhist influence. The people of Lahaul-Spiti practice Tibetan Buddhism, while tribals in Kinnaur follow a mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism. There is also a small minority of Sikhs, Muslims and Christians in various parts of the state.
The main language of the people is Pahari, but with the influx of tourists—Indian and foreign—most people speak a smattering of Hindi sprinkled liberally with English. The most commonly spoken languages in Himachal Pradesh are Hindi, Punjabi, Pahari, Dogri, Kangri and Kinnauri.
Although rearing of goats, sheep and other cattle is an important occupation, most of the locals are dependent on agriculture for survival.
Simple, tasty and nutritious, the local cuisine’s basic ingredients include rice, lentils, mutton and chicken. But the common feature to all these diverse foods from across the nation is in the feeding of guests—the plate is always piled high and accompanied by wine, local or otherwise.
The food is cooked in mustard oil or clarified butter. The Himachalis have a particular fondness for tea and never says no to that extra cup. The food has a significant influences of Tibetan cuisine and the neighbouring Punjab.The topography and climate too play an important role in the food cooked. Native spices, herbs and fruits and vegetables liberally smatter the cuisine. Some of the specialities of Himachal Pradesh are Pateer, Chouck, Bhagjery and Til chutney. Nasasta, a sweetmeat dish is also famous.
One of the most important food items of the people of Himachal Pradesh is daal-chawal, or plain rice and pulses which is a very common food item of the north Indians. Another delicious food of the region is roti-sabzi or flat pancake-like bread made up of wheat and vegetable curry.
Cooked from flour of wheat and savored with ghee or butter, sidu is a well-known dish. Patande is another important local dish, from the Sirmour district. Made from wheat, patande is like a pancake, and is popularly known as the Indian Pancake of Himachal Pradesh.
Meat is commonly consumed by the non-vegetarians. Raw meat cooked with cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, red chillies and coriander leaves is a popular item. Himachal Pradesh celebrates the food festival of Dham, which attracts several tourists from far and wide. The variety of food items reflects the vibrant and dynamic yet simple life of the people of Himachal Pradesh.
Isolated as they are due to the high altitudes, the people of Himachal Pradesh are by and large, self-contained and have their own distinctive rich tradition of handicrafts, ranging from wood-work to leather embroidery, metalwares to carpets and woolen textiles. New designs are being added to the traditional ones and new markets, both in India and abroad, are being discovered. The Pashmina shawl in particular is a chi-chi fashion statement draped like a subtle style quotient around style icons across the globe.
Those who can, dance…and sing, a fact that is evident in the largely isolated state’s colourful song-and-dance legacy that marks all religious celebrations and festive occasions. Himachali folklore is replete with themes of valour and legendary love stories. The famous “Natti” dance of Kullu is performed mainly by men wearing short tunics and churidars (a tight legwear) and embroidered Kullu caps. Martial dances like the “Burah” in Sirmaur and Birsue and “Ghugti” in upper Shimla are performed with the waving of axes and swords. Kinnauri women dressed in traditional costumes with chunky silver jewellery perform the “Bakayang” dance. Masked dances recounting romantic and satirical themes are performed in the Jubbal and Rohru valleys of Shimla. Buddhist gompas (monasteries) have their famous mask dances, performed by the lamas. The Lossor festival is celebrated with the “chhaam” dance to celebrate the death of the oppressive ninth-century Tibetan ruler Langdarma. Performed in elaborate costumes and masks, the dance marks the triumph of good over evil. In autumn, “Fullaich” or the Festival of Flowers is celebrated in Kinnaur, where villagers collect wildflowers and make offerings to the local deity.
The “Lavi” fair at Rampur on the India-Tibet road, is a centuries-old gathering of traders from Ladakh, Tibet and Afghanistan. This ancient trade route was a lifeline for the local people, who traded in wool, dry fruits and horses. Though the world has moved forward and eight-lane highways run through cities and states, this road holds a special place for the locals.
Some of the other celebrations that make for the colourful Himachali calendar are the Kullu Dussehra, Shivratri Fair (Mandi), Shoolini Mela(Solan), Minjar Fair(Chamba), Mani Mahesh Chhari Yatra(Chamba), Renuka Fair(Sirmaur), Vrajeshwari Fair(Kangra), Cattle Fair, Chhat Festival and Navratri festival.
The Dance and Music so much a part of the festivals of Himachal Pradesh, are embedded in every local, a mark of their distinctive legacy, a celebration of melodious proportions and a binding factor that ties in the diverse lives of the locals in harmonious synchronicity. Different regions have their own dance forms, but folk music is popular among all the Himachalis. The popular dance forms of the state are the Rakshasa dance, the Kayang dance, the Bakayang dance, Rasa dance and the Jhoor dance.
It may be in the upper reaches of the north but journeymen – and women – don’t fret. Himachal Pradesh is most certainly no inaccessible. There are roads that lead to anywhere and travellers with itchy feet and a penchant for discovery have the world as their oyster.
By Air
There are three main airports in Himachal – Jabbarhatti near Shimla, Gaggal near Kangra and Bhunter near Kullu.
By Rail
Being a hilly state and with difficult terrain, it is not connected by trains except for two narrow gauge rail lines between Kalka and Shimla and Pathankot and Joginder Nagar.
By Road
The most popular way to travel into the state is by road – either by bus, taxi or your own set of wheels, rented or private. Three national highways crisscross the state. National Highway (NH) 20 enters Himachal through Pathankot, which connect Nurpur, Dharamshala, Palampur, Joginder Nagar and ends at Mandi.
NH-21 begins at Chandigarh and goes up to Leh via Bilaspur, Mandi and Kullu Manali.
NH-22 starts from Ambala and goes up to Kinnaur via Solan, Shimla, Narkanda and Rampur.
Getting around this hill state is easy if you have your own transportation, be it a car or a motorcycle. The trademark green, small and rickety buses that you see rambling around are courtesy the state government that ply between the various destinations in the state. They are driven at a snail’s pace, not because of vigilance on part of the driver to protect passengers from frequent landslides, but due to the inherent manufacturing ‘defect’ of these green slowpokes. But private operators save the day for tourists with many buses and coaches, tours and MUVs.
From the crisp fragrant spring and hot summers that practically call out from a sweat-soaked, activity-packed day, to the romance of the rains or the nippy winter ideal for a swift skiing holiday, Himachal Pradesh is what you want it to be.
Spring is in the air in March and April, with temperatures in a very pleasant range of 20°C in the day time with a drop at night. If you want to avoid the tourist rush, then this is the best time for you to enjoy the peace and quiet of the upper north.
Summers from May and June see a rise in the footfalls, particularly in popular destinations like Shimla and Manali. The Sipi Fair, held in Shimla in May is a definite thing to see if you are here during this time.
The monsoon (July-August) too sees Himachal donning its best colours, though tourists may not necessarily agree; these are the months when the crowds thin considerable. This is also a time for festivals and events, especially in Kullu.
The winter months between November and February see the slopes of Himachal Pradesh covered in a thick blanket of snow. Kufri is very popular for skiing. Shimla is also quite popular in the winters with snow being the big attraction – that and the Winter Carnival at Manali, as well as the celebration of the Tibetan New Year at McLeodGanj in February.
A part of India, but distinctive in its own right, Himachal Pradesh’s uniqueness is evident in its natural cover. Nearly 63.9 per cent of the total area is under the thick forest cover. The vegetation is a blend of the Ban Oak Forest, Moist Deodar Forest, Western Mixed Coniferous Forest, Moist Temperate Deciduous Forest, Himalayan Alpine Pastures and Rhododendron Scrub Forest. The lower ranges have the growth of blue pine while the higher altitudes have firs. There are around 1200 species of bird and 359 species of animals in Himachal Pradesh. The major species of wildlife in the state are the snow leopard, musk deer, blue sheep, ibex, wolf, leopard, rhesus macaque, common langur, Himalayan black bear, goral, muntjac and serow. Two National Parks and a few wildlife sanctuaries have been established to protect the unique fauna of the state. Tone of the parks has the largest remaining population of Himalayan Tahr in the Himachal Pradesh.