God’s own country, India’s tourist haven, the land of the coconut trees, the state with the highest literacy rate, a paradise on Earth, a temple of everything Auyrvedic, the paradise of the exotic backwaters and even more exotic food – Kerala is different things to different people. But in one thing everyone stands united – it is a place to visit at least once in this lifetime.
Located along the Malabar Coast of southwest India, Kerala captured the world’s fascination way before India acquired its current pre-eminent position in the globetrotter’s imagination. It travelled across oceans through the word-of-mouth of visitors to make a place for itself among much-vaunted tourist destinations, much before the Internet shrunk the world and brought Kerala’s backwaters in global backyards.
Popular for these aforementioned backwaters, the Ayurvedic treatment spas that are as common here as fast food joints are in most cities, and yoga, Kerala calls out to all those weary souls seeking shelter from cacophony of city life and bears them away to calmer shores.
Kerala is old – and familiar, like all the good things in life, like memories of more innocent times, which we retreat into as an escape from the desperate intensity of the Now. Being in Kerala, even for tourists and visitors, is like coming home.
Geography
Between the mountain and the deep blue sea, is where you will find the wedge of habitable land that is Kerala. With the Western Ghats to the east and the Arabian Sea to the west, Kerala is spread over 38,863 sq km. Its coast runs a length of approximately 580 km. The landscape of the eastern part of the state bears the telltale signs of its most dominating feature – the Western Ghats. Towering mountains, deep valleys and gorges, this part of the state also boasts some dense forests and famous coffee and tea plantations. Forty-one of Kerala’s 44 rivers originate in this region. The west of the mountain range, which is Central Kerela, is all plains and gently sloping hills and plays host to paddy fields.
The state’s coastal belt is a veritable nature’s paradise of gently swaying coconut trees, paddy fields with interconnected networks of canals and rivers cutting across.
And finally the most popular tourist feature, Kerala’s backwaters – an interconnected system of brackish water lakes and river estuaries lying inland from the coast and practically running the entire length of the state. These facilitate inland travel throughout a region that is bounded by Thiruvananthapuram in the south and Vadakara (which lies some 450 km to the north). Lake Vembanad – Kerala’s largest body of water and lying between Alappuzha and Kochi and is over 200 square km in area – dominates the backwaters. A virtual Venice of the east!
Climate
With its water water everywhere landscape, Kerala’s climate is tropical and humid and resoundingly wet! So wet in fact that the state serves as a the first port of call for the annual monsoon season as it anchors off the southwest coast before taking off for other parts of the country.
But for those who associate Kerala with rain and humidity generally don’t account for the extreme eastern fringes, which experience a drier tropical wet and dry climate.
With rain being the mainstay of the state, Kerala receives an average annual rainfall of 3107 mm — which is approximately an astounding 7,030 crore cubic metres of water; the all-India average is 1,197 mm. Parts of Kerala’s lowlands may average only 1,250 mm annually while the cool mountainous eastern highlands, which make up the state’s Idukki district is Kerala’s wettest region and receives in excess of 5,000 mm of annual rainfall. Interestingly, of this outpouring of nature’s generous blessing, 4,200 crore is available for human use annually. Kerala experiences about 120–140 rainy days per year. But come rain or high water, tourists journey to this region with faithful regularity.
What passes for the summers here are no less wet, with most of Kerala displaying a partiality to all season wet. Winds worthy of a gale, storms surges and torrential downpours accompanying dangerous cyclones coming in off the Indian Ocean are regular visitors this time of the year. Kerala’s average maximum daily temperature is around 36.7 °C; the minimum is 19.8 °C.
History
Kerala was on the radar of mankind even before Ayurvedic spas and coconut-studded landscapes became de rigueur. Dating back to nearly 5000 BC, Kerala was an established spice trade centre and an important cog that kept the wheel of global trade running. For much of history, ports in Kerala were the busiest among all trade and travel routes in the history of the world.
The earliest written record mentioning Kerala is contained in the Sanskrit epic known as the Aitareya Aranyaka. Megasthanes, the Greek Ambassador to the court of Emperor Chandragupta Maurya (4th Century BC) mentions in his work Indica on many South Indian States, including Automela, and a Pandian trade centre. Laterite rock-cut caves (Chenkallara), Hood stones (Kudakkallu), Hat stones (Toppikallu), Dolmenoid cists (Kalvrtham), Urn burials (Nannangadi) and Menhirs (Pulachikallu) are the Megalithic monuments found in Kerala.
However, a distinct Keralite identity is associated with the development of Malyalam, the native language of the state, sometime during the 8thand 9th centuries. It believed to be originated as an offshoot of Tamil as all historical records available till date from Kerala is in Tamil, the principal native language of neighbouring Tamil Nadu. Malayalam (derived from the local words: mala (means Mountain) and aalam (means kingdom)) as a phrase means the living/inhabitants of Mountain Kingdom. This phrase, which in earlier times implied the geographical location of the region, was later replaced by Kerala. After the linguistic separation of Kerala from Tamil Nadu, this state evolved an identity of its own and has continued to play a significant role in the development of the country as a whole. The religious history of the state also saw a simultaneous evolution along with the rest of the country. Buddhism and Jainism reached Kerala around this period.
The state’s contact with the rest of the world was courtesy its seaside location, with merchants and traders travelling via the Arabian Sea touched land and glimpsed Kerala several millennia ago. It was from Kerala that Vasco de Gama was introduced to India and gave his countrymen, the Portuguese to establish their presence here, way back in 1498, to end the Arab monopoly on trade. They in turn, were put out of business when the Dutch arrived.
The Dutch, for their part, were shouldered out of the way by the Nairs from Travancore in the Battle of Kulachal in 1741. In the same century, Hyder Ali of Mysore conquered northern Kerala. This was also a period of the Birtish rule in India and the latter half of the 18th century saw many battles fought between Hyder Ali and his successor Tipu Sultan, and the British. These have gone down in history as the Anglo-Mysore wars. Eventually, Tipu Sultan ceded his territory to the British. Cochin and Travancore became princely states of British India. Organised expressions of discontent with British rule were not infrequent in Kerala. Uprisings of note include the rebellion by Pazhassi Raja, Velu Thampi Dalawa and the Punnapra-Vayalar revolt of 1946.
People
In a country reeling under the dichotomy of being a soft power with a superlatively educated population on the one hand and an entire strata of society with inaccessibility to even the most primary of schools, Kerala shines like a beckon of hope. Boasting a 100 per cent literacy rate, the state is home to some of the most highly educated people of the country. A fact reflected in their courteous disposition towards visitors.
Kerala is mostly modern in its outlook and in its dress, though the ubiquitous Indian sari is a staple here, as it is in other parts of the country. The men too, are outfitted in the clothes that unite all men across the world – trousers and shirt. Though you will catch quite a few proudly wearing their tradition on their sleeve, in the traditional kasavu mundu, a three- to four-metre-long cotton twin cloth with a silk border, as formal dress and a colourful cloth called kaily or lungi at home as the informal dress. Mundu is more popular in the rural areas.
The official language of Kerala is Malayalam but English too is widely spoken and is taught in schools and universities. Malayalam is considered to be a very complete language it has 56 alphabets and many more vowels, making every word and accent in the world easily pronounceable to the Malayalees. Kerala is one of the most progressive state in terms of social welfare and physical quality of life. The matriarchal system here is a unique social heritage as the women of Kerala enjoy a better status than there counter parts else where in India.
The people of Kerala enjoy a unique cosmopolitan outlook, which is reflected in there tolerance towards other races and religions. So it has been called Kerala as God’s Own Country.
You’re in for some finger-lickin’, mouth-watering, lip-smackin’ treat here in God’s Own Country. And if you are an avid fish-eater, then the treats just don’t stop! From lunch and dinner to roadside food vendors, Kerala’s cuisine is more than just sustenance. It is a treat to the sensory world of foodies and non-foodies alike.
A typical lunch or dinner meal would consist of rice, dal – a gravy made of pulses, various seasonal vegetables cooked with coconut and different spices, a seafood curry and a sweet dish.
Here in Kerala, the coconut is king. It’s omniscient and irreplaceable. Cuisines of Kerala are mainly about using coconut and spices in different ways. And the quintessential coconut greets you in all guises – grated, chopped, variously shaped sizes, in liquid form. The coconut is your companion as you travel the length and breadth of this state. Some of the recipes of Kerala that are eaten as breakfast include dosas, sambhar, idlis, uttapams and puttu. Some of these cuisines are prepared using rice powder, spices, coconut and vegetables. If the breakfast doesn’t impress, as it most certainly will, there is always lunch, dinner and everything in between. Lunch includes pulses made with different spices. Some of the traditional delicacies are “Vallepam”, which is a pancake made out of fermented paste of rice. This can be teamed with stew or coconut milk and eaten as a snack item. Vallepam is also prepared using meat and egg. Rice being the staple food in Kerala is used in many ways in different recipes. If your sweet tooth has not kicked its habit of cajoling you into eating inordinate amounts of sweet, be sure to try the “payasam”. Prepared with rice, bananas, sugar or jaggery and milk, the payasam is cooked and simmered till it becomes thick like custard.
For the sea foodies, varieties include oysters, crabs, rays, tuna, mackerel, shark and sardines.
Cuisines of Kerala can best be enjoyed during the festival of Onam, during the grand feast of “Sadya” organised during the day. Tourists can enjoy all sorts of delicacies made out of coconut and banana in the state that specialises in the production of these fruits. A trip to Kerala is sure to leave you rejuvenated and your taste buds rewarded with delicacies whose aromas linger in your mind forever.
Kerala is steeped in it. One visit to the state and visitors who are not prepared for it can drown under the onslaught of the state’s culture, evident in every aspect of life here: from the ancient yogic traditions that have been kept alive well into the 21st century to the backwaters that lend themselves so well to snake boat races and other things uniquely Kerala.
Be it events and festivals like Onam, annual Snake Boat Races, the Temple Festival, the vast and varied cultural programmes held during the year are talked about in the country. Kerala is known for its various kinds of performing arts – Kathakali, Kalaripayattu and Mohiniattam are world-renowned dance forms from the region. Performances like Theyyam and folk dances are captivating art forms. Theyyam is one of the famous forms of arts, which is known as the trance like dance form performed with masks. Another graceful dance in Kerala is the well-known Thiruvathirakali, which is performed by women during Onam. Kaikotikalli is performed during wedding ceremonies. Kalaripayattu, an ancient martial art that trained warriors for wars is still popularly identified with the state. Today, the art is more of a sport and a measure to keep one’s fitness.
With the Arabian Sea on its west and the backwaters making up the rest, you can be forgiven for believing that the roads somehow got lost in between and that journey to the state is akin to journey to the centre of the earth…below the sea! But for all its water, Kerala has a fantastic network of roads and is a well-connected and developed region of the country – by land, sea or air.
By Air
There are three airports in Kerala, with flights to domestic and international destinations: Kozhikode, Kochi (Nedumbassery) and Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum). The airports have several carriers operating international flights around the world.
There are 20 to 25 international carriers offering flights to Kerala. Apart from international carriers, domestic airlines – private and government-run also offer international connections from the three airports. Domestic destinations accessible by direct flights from these airports include the major metroes, Chennai, Begaluru, Mumbai and Delhi, as well as Agatti, Mangalore and Goa. There are daily, some bi-daily flights to most of the Indian cities from airports in Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram.
By Rail
If you are already in the country and have a sudden urge to watch the rolling landscape of India and hop aboard a train to reach the state, then you have made a good decision. Indian Railways operates many trains in and out of Kerala. They commence their journey from neighbouring states like Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. Long-haul direct train services are available from Delhi and Mumbai and other metroes.
Trains are the most popular method of transport and almost all trains in Kerala originate or terminate in Ernakulam or Thiruvananthapuram and are usually heavily booked, so be sure to buy your tickets as early as possible.
If you have caught the bug of train travel, then the Golden Chariot is just what the travel guide ordered. This luxury tourist train has introduced a South Indian Rail Tour, which includes many parts of Kerala. This is a good option for those who want to visit the South Indian states on a tight schedule.
By Road
If it’s a road trip you’re looking for, then hire a cab or a car, negotiate a price and journey onward. Or there’s always the bus.
Kerala is well connected by the National Highways: Most of the NH roads are dual carriageways. However, a word of caution. Vehicle density is very high here, so accidents are a common eventuality. Be extra cautious while driving here.
If it’s a bus you prefer, then inter-state private and government buses operates between neighbouring states. The most common inter-state bus is Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation with daily bus from most of Major cities of Kerala to Bangalore, Mysore and Mangalore. The Tamil Nadu State Bus like SETC also operates regularly from Kerala. Kerala’s State bus – KRSTC-Kerala also has a regular bus to most of nearby places in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka and also operates a few Volvo AC buses to Bangalore and Coimbatore.
Private players have also entered this domain, so if you’re looking for a more comfortable journey and not a salt-of-the-earth kind of an experience, then private buses are recommended.
By Ferry
If you are one of those who look on in scorn at landlubbers when there are ferries around and enough water to make a separate city, then Kerala lends itself well to your watery pursuits – and seafaring ways. The state has an extensive series of water bodies with rivers, backwaters and lagoons making travel by ferry an effective service. In some places, ferries are more popular and easier than road transport. Most of the places in Alapuzha-Kuttanad area is interconnected with regular ferry services.
Moreover, the National Waterway – NW 3 – which runs from Kollam in south Kerala to Kottapuram in Thrissur district, has also opened and shall be served by large boats once it’s thrown open to the public.
Whether you be a landlubber or a waterbaby, travel options within the state are palatable to all tastes.
By train
Trains are good for long-distance travel; most trains are long distance and halt at many of Kerala’s stations. Short-distance trains are mainly intercity passenger trains, connecting only major cities.
By car
Roads remain the popular alternative, the primary roads being NH 47, NH 49, NH 17 and NH 212 which all National Highways. The NH 47 is a busy route as it connects Kochi and Trivandrum. The traditional primary road is MC Road, which covers on the most scenic places in south Kerala. However NH 47 cut the time at least by 1 hour for a travel between Kochi and Trivandrum. State Highways connect to almost all parts of Kerala.
By Bus
Bus transport is most popular transport to travel within Kerala and ideal for budget conscious travellers. Kerala has an excellent public bus system operated by both government-owned Kerala State Road Transport Corp and various private operators. You can opt for AC or non-AC buses.
By Taxi
If you don’t mind a fair bit of lightening in the weight of your wallet, then the taxi can be a viable alternative. Be sure to negotiate a price before you get in.
By Auto
These three-wheeled vehicles are a common sight around the state and are a convenient mode for short distances. These are all metered vehicles so be sure the meter’s on before you get in. Most stations and bus stops have pre-paid auto stands as well.
By Ferry
Kerala has an extensive series of water bodies with rivers, backwaters and lagoons making travel by ferry an effective service. In some places, ferries are more popular and easier than road transport. Most of the places in Alapuzha-Kuttanad area is interconnected with regular ferry services.
Kerala is one of those places that enjoy 365 days of mild weather, being as it is in a tropical geographical region. The ideal time to visit Kerala is during March to August, when the weather is at its most pleasant. On the flip side, everyone thinks just like you do, so the place is swarming with tourists.