Mumbai defies description – a metro. Sure. Commercial centre. Most definitely. Home to the movies. Irrefutably. Chaotic. Of course. Confused. Positively. Caught between contrasting, mind-numbing extremes, where – to corrupt a popular literary phrase – the rich are the rich and the poor and the poor and never the twain shall meet? Umm. Not quite. Because it is a city that literally has the rich and the poor sitting cheek by jowl, and it is the place, where by quirks of fate, the poor too get a shot at becoming rich.
Mumbai, as stated earlier, defies description. But it is definitely worth your while to visit this city that was part of a dowry to cement the strong marital bonds between Great Britain and Portugal; once a cluster of seven islands, Mumbai was presented to King Charles II in 1661 when he married Princess Catherine de Braganza of Portugal.
Mumbai – to put it simply – represents the ever-changing face of today’s India – where the old and the new coexist, yet at its very essence, it is completely, indubitably Indian. Old and new, rich and poor, classical and modern – it’s all here for you to savour. SO love it or hate it, Mumbai is an experience that you just should not miss.
Sights to See
Crawford Market
Also known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Market, this is a busy market area, (yes, more busy and more chaotic than the rest of the surounding cacophony!), and is best visited early in the day. The fruits and vegetable section offers the freshest produce and a good variety of seasonal – and exotic – veggies.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus)
Much has been written about the stunning architecture of the world famous VIcotira Terminus, but nothing quite beats a first glimpse. This is a magnificent building, and considered to be one of the finest architectures of its kins in the world. Built by the British in 1888, it has exquisite ornamentation on its facade along with beautifully executed panels and friezes. A statue of Queen Victoria on its dome, serenely surveys the land that was once a crown jewel in her kingdom.
Global Vipassana Pagoda
The Global Vipassana Pagoda is the world’s largest pillar-less dome with a capacity to seat 8,000 meditators. In it are enshrined Buddha’s genuine relics, making it the first such pagoda post Emperor Asoka’s era to hold such important, sacred instruments of Buddhism.
Flora Fountain and the Gothic/Victorian buildings of the Fort Area
The Flora Fountain stands on the site of the old church gate of the Bombay Fort, now a major crossroad named Hutatma Chowk. First erected to honour Sir Bartle Frere, a former governor of Bombay and named after the Greek goddess Flora, this crossroad was renamed to commemorate those people who sacrificed themselves in the struggle for the statehood of Maharashtra. (Maharashtra was a bilingual state with Gujarat till 1960, when it was recognised as a state in its own right). Other buildings to see in the Fountain or Fort area – as this stretch in south Bombay is known to the locals – are the old-world buildings that encompass the seat of education, the University of Mumbai, including the imposing Rajabhai Tower, the Mumbai High Court, the Old Secretariat, and the Institute of Science on one end. Close by are situated the St Thomas Cathedral, the Asiatic Society of Bombay or the Town Hall, the Office of the Director General of Police, the General Post Office and the Thomas Cook building.
The Western Railway Headquarters is also quite near, across the street from the Churchgate Station. These buildings are fine examples of the Gothic and Indo-Saracenic style. Many are illuminated by night. An exotic way of seeing these sights would be by the MTDC open-air bus or by the few surviving buggy rides. Close by to Flora Fountain is the Kala Ghoda area which holds a once a week fair (every Sunday) from November to January. Heritage walks around this historic district of Mumbai are also quite a popular way to imbibe the city’s contrasting structures.
Jehangir Art Gallery
Close to the Prince of Wales Museum, this gallery is a prime art house to showcase for contemporary art. The displays change regularly. An equally charming – if perhaps quaint – and typically Mumbai phenomena are the portraiture artists among other assorted skilled artists, who are lined up on the sidewalk outside the museum. A visit to these al fresco is as rewarding as the world-renowned names that hang in the walls of the Jehangir Art Gallery.
Prince of Wales Museum
Something to see – both internally and externally. This is one of Mumbai’s finest examples of Victorian architecture. Built to commemorate King George V’s visit to Mumbai (while he still held the title of Prince of Wales), it was designed by George Wittet and completed in 1923. It is undoubtedly one of India’s finest museums and houses treasures, artefacts, paintings and sculptures covering many periods of India’s chequered past, including the Indus Valley Civilisation.
National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA)
This is the former Cowasji Jehangir Hall of the Institute of Science. It has been renovated to serve as a four-storey exhibition hall, displaying the best of Indian contemporary art.
Gateway of India
Mumbai’s most striking monument, the one that is on the itinerary of every first-time visitor to the city is the iconic Gateway of India, which was also designed by George Wittet. It has an imposing gateway arch in the Indo-Saracenic style with Gujarati and Islamic elements carved along its imposing structure. It was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India in 1911. This area is also the departing point for ferries plying to the Elephanta Island to see the Elephanta Caves, and other beaches across the port. Behind it is the beautiful old (and new) structure of the Taj Mahal Palace & Hotel.
Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach
This coastal stretch extends from the foot of the upscale Walkeshwar neighbourhood to the equally upscale residential and commercial Nariman Point. For the most part, a pleasant promenade continues along the beach with the Chowpatty area situated almost at the midpoint. The concept of beaches in Mumbai is rather different from anywhere else in the world or anywhere else in the country for that matter. Beaches within the city are mostly for children to play along the shores, or people to amble along while enjoying the occasional sea spray and roadside food, which is best avoided if you don’t have a cast-iron stomach! City beaches are not for swimming. Across the Chowpatty Beach area is the Taraporewala Aquarium. Marine Drive is also referred to as the Queen’s Necklace because of the dramatic line of street lamps lit up at night.
Malabar Hill
An upmarket residential area with some spectacular views of the city surroundings, Malabar Hill is where people live in quiet luxury. Its accessibility too is marked by an uphill, winding road, quite the status symbol for the rich and the privileged. On the road climbing up is a Jain temple dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain tirthankara. Once you reach the top, at one end, are the dubiously named Hanging Gardens (Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens), and the Kamala Nehru Park, both an expanse of surprising greenery in the concrete jungle. Next to the Hanging Gardens are the Parsi Towers of Silence, off-limits to all except those who have come to dispose and pay respect to the dead. Towards the other end is the Banganga temple complex at Walkeshwar, considered to be one of Mumbai’s holiest sites. Local legend has it that the Hindu god Ram rested here on his way to rescue Sita (his wife) from the evil clutches of the demon king Ravan way down in his kingdom known as Lanka. Further away is the British-built Raj Bhavan, the residence of the governor of Maharashtra. The Banganga Festival of Music is a yearly highlight, and is usually in the month of January.
Mani Bhavan
This simple and charming museum was where Mahatma Gandhi lived on his visits to Mumbai between 1917 and 1934. Gandhi’s room and belongings including his books are on display here. Mani Bhavan is situated on Laburnam Road, near the August Kranti Maidan, the landmark from where the Father of the Nation launched the unforgettable ‘Quit India’ movement in 1942.
Mahalaxmi Temple
The Mahalaxmi Temple is a popular holy site situated at one end of Breach Candy – a trendy residential and shopping area.
Haji Ali Shrine
Further along the seashore, at the end of a long pathway surrounded by seawater is the shrine dedicated to Haji Ali, a Muslim saint. Access is only at low tide via the pathway.
Siddhivinayak Temple
Located in the heart of the city, this popular temple dedicated to the Hindu god, Ganesh, and was rebuilt on the site of a 200-year old temple. Built of black stone, the idol of Ganesh is two-and-a-half feet in height and two feet in width. Tuesday is the main day when devotees from around the city, and even across the country, come to pay their respects. Some even come walking from far and wide as a mark of their deep devotion. And, as is the case with such massive crowds, the area, especially on Tuesdays is a traffic nightmare!
Juhu Beach
This is the suburban sibling of the Chowpatty Beach at Marine Drive. It is a wonderful place to bring kids, as it doubles up as an amusement park, playground, and open-air restaurant. An unusual sight at this beach is the camel ride, which is both fun and popular.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park and Kanheri Caves
A national park, that too right in the middle of a chaotic, commercial cacophony of a city! Yes, this can happen only in India. The Sanjay Gandhi National Park, abbreviated to the Borivali National Park (after the suburb in which it is located), is 104 square km of green hills and forests. This protected area lies near the northern suburb of Borivali and offers a stunning diversity of flora and fauna.. There is a Lion Safari Park 500 metres inside the entrance and daily safari rides. The park is also well known for the 109 Kanheri Caves ( in particular Cave 3), built between the 2nd and 9th centuries as viharas (monasteries) and chaityas (prayer halls).
RBI Museum
The Reserve Bank of India (RBI) is the central bank of the country, and as such, also the custodian of the country’s monetary heritage, one which it takes very seriously, as attested to by the fact that it as set up the Monetary Museum as a part of its education and outreach programme.
Shopping
While most well-known international brands of everything under the sun have now established a presence in Mumbai, nothing can quite match the pleasure of scoruign the city streets for locally made things. And Mumbai’s streets, corners and pavements are lined with shops and virtually anything you want is available in parts of its famous bazaars and markets. The main areas for bargain clothes are around Colaba Causeway and Fashion Street, which stretches along the Cross and Azad Maidans and the Linking Road stretch of Mumbai’s most fashionable suburb, Bandra. The clothes, shoes and accessories lining the streets can put international styles to shame!
In the south Bombay area, while Zaveri Bazaar is famous for its diamonds, gold and silver jewellery, the delightfully named Chor Bazaar is an antique-hunter’s delight.
Chor Bazaar translates as thieves’ market, a name coined by the British, perhaps mistakenly. It is also thought that the original name was Shor Bazaar (Noisy Market) which aptly described the yelling and shouting of the local traders on Mutton Street while selling their secondhand, household goods. Today, it is a hustling bustling market selling an electic range of new and old furniture and bric-a-brac. The traders,whose families have been in this business for generations, scour the countryside buying goods to sell in the market.
Excursions from Mumbai
Elephanta Caves
Across the Mumbai Harbour lie the seventh-century rock-cut temples of Elephanta. Once known as Gharapuri, or the Fortress City, the caves are now designated as a World Heritage Site and visited by hundreds of tourists. The Portuguese renamed this island Elephanta after a large stone elephant found near the shore.
Marve, Manori and Gorai
North of Mumbai and away from its bustling crowds and pollution, are these three beaches that have become popular havens for Mumbai’s city folk. Marve is the closest to the city centre. A quiet little fishing village, it is also peppered with some beautiful bungalows that are getaway homes to the city’s wealthy. Gorai and Manori, a little further away, are more crowded and famous for beach parties.
Mandwa and Kihim
You will find these two beach fronts 20 km north of Alibag on the north coast and easily accessible from Mumbai. Mandwa is a beautiful, untrodden beach. On a clear day one can enjoy a long, breathtaking view across the bay, up to the Gateway of India. The village of Mandwa is a charming little spot with its beautiful groves of coconut palms. City dwellers looking for a camp experience can plan a tent holiday nearby at Kihim.
Bassein
Bassein Fort, though in ruins now, was a thriving fortified city under the Portuguese rule from 1534 to 1739, when it was ransacked by the Marathas. The ruins of the Portuguese Fort still stand almost covered under brushwood and palm groves. Some of the walls and churches can still be seen. About 10 km to the northwest lies Nalasopara village, the capital of the Konkan region from 1500 BC to AD 1300. Many Buddhist relics were discovered here. Nalasopara is believed to have been the birthplace of the Buddha in a previous life. To the north is the Agar of Agashi and to the south is the Agar of Bassein. An hour by bus from Bassein station are the Vajreshwari Temple and Akoli Hot Springs. Also easily accessible is Ganeshpuri with the Sadguru Nityanand Maharaj Samadhi Mandir, the Bhimeshwar Temple and other ashrams.
Khandala, Lonavala and Karla
Khandala and Lonavala are two charming hill stations on the western slopes of the Sahyadris, 5 km apart straddling the Mumbai-Pune highway at an altitude of 625 m. Very popular with Mumbaiites as getaways. Khandala is the smaller and calmer of the two, though browsing through Lonavala’s bazaar could yield some wonderful surprises.
Matheran
Matheran is an undulating hilltop cloaked in shady trees at an altitude of 800 m. The journey involves an adventurous two-hour ascent in a toy train, with food and drink vendors and monkeys jumping on and off as the valley glides by sedately. Alternately, a tough 11 km hike through thick and shady forests or a winding car drive can get you there as well. The best thing about this place is that no cars are allowed!
Entertainment
A megalopolis if there ever was one, Mumbai is famous as the city that never sleeps and for being the entertainment capital of the country. With a pulsating nightlife and bars and lounges opening up at regular intervals, not for nothing has Mumbai earned the reputation of being a nocturnal paradise. Also home to the glamorous Bollywood film industry, Mumbai can be indisputably crowned as the one-stop-shop for pulsating entertainment. Traditionally, Mumbai has always had a strong local following for both music and theatre, with English, as well as regional theatre boasting a discerning and loyal audience. Plays are performed all over the city with a number of theatre halls across the city, but it is the iconic National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) at Nariman Point and the Prithvi Theatre in Juhu (with an excellent café) that exude that indefinable aura of creativity and host regular performances.
Festivals
Banganga Festival
Usually held in January, this two-day festival of music is held at the historic Banganga Tank. Performers are usually exponents of classical vocal and instrumental music. Proceeds from the sale of tickets go towards the conservation, upkeep and maintenance of the Banganga temple complex.
Elephanta Festival
Against the dramatic façade of the cave temples, this festival of dance and music is usually held in February. The event involves a boat ride from the Gateway of India to the Elephanta Islands.
Kala Ghoda Festival
Every Sunday from November to January, the Kala Ghoda area near the Jehangir Art Gallery is transformed into a street bazaar of arts and crafts. Food, handicrafts and performances are all part of this day – and night – long event.
Getting There
By Air
The international airport is the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (formerly known as Sahar Airport), and the domestic airport is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Domestic Airport (formerly known as Santa Cruz Airport). They are about 4 km apart and are both in the suburbs.
By Rail
For those choosing to travel by train, Mumbai’s two main railway terminals – Mumbai Central and Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (or VT) – connect it to the rest of the country.
By Road
Long distance buses depart from the Mumbai Central ST Bus Depot to several towns and cities. The MTDC also operates a number of bus services throughout the year (except during the monsoon) to many scenic spots and tourist centres. There are many private taxis for hire as well.
Getting Around
Mumbai has the best public transport facilities in the entire country, with the redoubtable local trains journeying across the city for almost 24 hours. The buses too ply around at regular intervals and there are the eponymous black-and-yellow cabs, and autorickshaws in the suburbs as well.