Just like her sisters, this one too remains a mystery – by accident of birth and by canny intention. And just like her sisters, she too inexorably draws people in with her inherent exotica. Yes. Nagaland, located in the northeastern reaches of India, is a slice of historic life even in this highly enlightened 21st century. The state which was created out of its bigger sister Assam displays yet again the vast, hard-to-define diversity of India and stands as ever, as an enigma to be explored for travellers.
Sometimes incomprehensible, sometimes surprisingly familiar, but always interesting, Nagaland has been the place of undeniable political unrest and unfortunate government negligence, but it is a place that inspires exploration and discovery and a desire to reach into a region of the world that has remained untouched.
Geography
Nagaland is a state in the far north-eastern part of India. It borders the state of Assam to the west, Arunachal Pradesh and part of Assam to the north, Burma to the east and Manipur to the south. The state capital is Kohima, and the largest city is Dimapur. The state of Nagaland has an area of 16,579 square km with a population of 1,980,602 as per the 2011 census, making it one of the smallest states of India. Mostly a mountainous state, its highest peak is Mount Saramati at a height of 3,840 metres and its range forms a natural barrier between Nagaland and Burma. The Naga Hills rise from the Brahmaputra Valley in Assam to about 610 m and rise further to the southeast, as high as 1,800 m. Rivers such as the Doyang and Diphu to the north, the Barak River in the southwest and the Chindwin River of Burma in the southeast dissect the entire state. Nearly 20 percent of the total land area of the state is covered with wooded forest, rich in flora and fauna. The evergreen tropical and the sub-tropical forests are found in strategic pockets in the state.
Climate
With an annual rainfall of around 1,800–2,500 mm, Nagaland has a largely monsoon climate with high humidity levels. The monsoon season extends from May to September. Summer is the shortest season in the state that lasts for only a few months. The temperature during the summer season remains between 16° C to 31° C. The average temperature of the state is between 21°C to 40° C. In winter, temperatures do not generally drop below 4° C, but frost is common at high elevations. Winter starts early with bitter cold and dry weather experienced in certain regions. Strong northwest winds blow across the state during the months of February and March.
History
Nagaland was established on December 1, 1963 in the eastern reaches of the Indian peninsula. But way before the 20th century gave it statehood, Nagaland was a land with its own tumultuous history, one that remains a significant chronicle in the history of a diverse nation with pockets of stories emerging from eavery part of the nation. That is indeed, what makes India a rich cauldron of stories.
While no written account exists of this state’s history, medieval documents relating to the neighboring city Ahom in Assam mention the economic and social lives of the Naga ethnic groups, recording some major historical facts about Nagaland. In 1816, Assam was invaded by Myanmar, following which Myanmar controlled the place from 1819 to 1826. In 1826, the British established their dominance over the region. By 1892, the entire Naga region, except the Tuensang area, was under imperial control. The British rule brought an end to the massive bloodshed and inter-regional conflicts.
After India’s independence, Nagaland remained a part of the state of Assam and was known as the Naga Hills Tuensang Area. However, certain segments of the population aspired for complete independence from India, which led to some intense and often violent revolts. However, the Indian army succeeded in making this revolt a failure in the year 1955.
Subsequently, at the meeting of Naga People’s Convention in 1960, it was finally decided that Nagaland will be considered a full-fledged state of India. In the year 1963, Nagaland was finally declared a separate state.
However, Nagaland still continues to simmer. At one point, the situation got so out of hand that presidential rule had to be declared in this state. In 1975, many anti-government leaders agreed to accept the administration of the Indian government but there were still some people who kept on agitating against the government. The restoration of peace in Nagaland continues to be an important focus, one that needs to be resolved amicably.
People
Descended from the Indo-Mongoloid family, the hill tribes in the areas now known as Nagaland had no generic term applicable to the whole race. The word ‘Naga’ was given to these hill tribes by the plains people. This proved to be a great unifying force to the tribes now classified as Naga, who constitute 14 officially recognised tribes – Angami, Ao, Chakhesang, Chang, Khemungan, Konyak, Lotha, Phom, Pochury, Rengma, Sangtam, Sema, Yimchunger and Zeliang.
Some tribes have split from other established tribes to carve out an identity of their own. Each tribe has their own languages and cultural features. The Nagas have different stories about their origin and each origin story can be traced back to popular legends. The Rengmas believe that until recently they and Lothas formed one tribe. The Aos and the Phoms trace their origin to the Lungterok (six stones) on the Chongliemdi hill. Some people believe that these Indo-Mongoloids are kiratas frequently mentioned in old Sanskrit literature of whom ‘Nagas’ were a sub-tribe.
The Nagas have a very strong sense of self respect and would not submit to anyone riding roughshod over their sentiments. The Angamis are politically the most conscious group. The Zeliang and Pochury tribes in Kohima district are comparatively simple and unsophisticated. The Tuensang tribes are the children of nature. A striking characteristic of the Naga tribes is their hospitality and cheerfulness. A visitor to Naga village is heartily received and entertained with a surfeit of rice-beer. It is an outpouring of warmth and friendliness that makes the disparities between visitor and local melt away.
The staple food of the Naga tribes is rice, eaten with meat or vegetables. The Nagas have a certain partiality to spicy food and chillies in particular. Meat ranges from beef and pork to chicken, and seafood as well. The more unorthodox meat consumption includes mithun, dogs, cats, spiders, birds, so much so that even the elephant is eaten and is considered a delicacy! Nagas certainly don’t believe in waste and eat each and every part of the animal. Sometimes the meat is smoke dried and preserved for a long time. Meat and vegetables are usually cooked together and the food is generally boiled.
While the local tribes certainly don’t shy away from eating almost any kind of meat, there are certain items which are considered taboo, either because they are not clean or because they are suspected to transmit their qualities to the consumer.
Rice beer is the main drink here and is made by fermenting the rice, and then distilling it. It is generally of three kinds: Zutho, Ruhi and Dzutse. It is nutritive in content and if hygienically prepared, is a must try.
An old world, culture, tradition and custom is the very essence of what the land of the Nagas is and continues to be. It is apparent in everything that they do – their food habits, their daily lives, their livelihood, and even their entertainment. Naga culture echoes down from the ages to weave a rich tapestry of a heritage that is a celebration of life and nature.
And music is an essential component of Naga custom. It is song that has carried forward this culture into the 21st century. The themes have a wide range of variety, from the glorification of a specific act of heroism, narration of an important event or the plaintive paean of romance. A common musical instrument is a string instrument called the petu. Another popular string instrument is theku. The flute, too is quite common. In some tribes, only boys are allowed to play the flute. The trumpet is mostly used by the herdsmen to scare away wild animals from the cattle. Among the present-day youth, the guitar is very popular. Born and brought up in a Christian atmosphere, the young boys and girls are naturally attracted to western music and instrument. If music is so embedded in Naga culture can dance be far behind? Strangely it is the monopoly of men, except in Zeliang tribe where women join with their men folk in dancing. The Zemis of the North Cachar hills are very fond of dances. There are a number of dances and each with a different name. They are named after the manner in which hands and feet are executed to resemble the movements of a bird or an insect or an animal. For example, Nruirolians is known as the ‘cock dance’ because it resembles the trait of a cock, while Gethinglim or the ‘cricket dance’ is a dance in which hands are moved to and fro. All these dances are performed with the accompaniment of songs and music.
Artistic endeavours of the Nagas include pursuits that have been handed down from generation to generation, such as wood carving, which are displayed in front of the house of a rich man or a warrior; bamboo work, thanks to the Naga forests which are rich in Bamboo and cane. Nagas are expert basket makers, but the craft is restricted to men. Apart from the baskets, the Nagas also make mats and shields with bamboo. The Changs make attractive chungas or drinking cups. Necklaces, armlets and leggings are made of cane. Pottery is not very popular and is practiced in very few villages. There is no revolving wheel; the Nagas make their pots by the use of hands only. The craft is restricted to women. A more recent craft is blacksmithy, which is gaining in popularity. The smiths produce the normal requirements of villagers like the Dao, axe, sickle, jewellery, knives, spear points and butts.
Festivals too are celebrated with great enthusiasm and are generally associated with agriculture and harvest. The popular festivals include Moatsu, which is the most important festival among the Ao tribe and is celebrated after the sowing is over. The festival last six days.
Sekrenyi is the principal Angami festival and is celebrated in February by the Western Angamis and in December by the Southern Angamis. The festival is to ensure the health and well being of the community.
Sankarni is one of the major festivals of the Zemis and coincides with the Hindu festival of Shivaratri. Chakhesang Khilunyie and Rengma Ngadah are both harvest festivals.
By Air
Dimapur, the only airport in Nagaland, is connected by air to the major cities in India.
By Rail
Dimapur, is also the important railhead in Nagaland, and is on the main line of North-Eastern Frontier Railway.
By Road
All important towns and villages in the state are connected by the Nagaland State Transport Services (NST). NST also operates a night deluxe service from Dimapur to Guwahati, Shillong, Mokokchung.
Domestic tourists visiting Nagaland require to obtain Inner Line Permits issued by the Deputy Resident Commissioner at Nagaland House, Delhi, Calcutta and Assistant Resident Commissioner, Shillong; Additional Deputy Commissioner, Dimapur; Deputy Commissioner, Kohima and Deputy Commissioner, Mokokchung. A permit fee os Rs. 5.00 is realised from each applicant. Detailed information can be had from the Directorate of Tourism, Nagaland, Kohima. Phone 21607/22214/21945. All foreign tourist desiring to visit Nagaland require Restricted Area Permits from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India, South Block, New Delhi.
The state may be the smallest in India, but it’s packed with things to do and rich with natural and historic sites.
Dimapur
The largest city in the state is known for the ruins of the medeival Kachari kingdom, Diezephe Craft Village, Rangapahar Reserve Forest, a handloom and handicrafts emporium and the North East Zone Cultural Centre.
Kohima
The capital of the state is worth a visit for its World War II Cemetery, State Museum, Catholic Cathedral, to see the Belho weavers at work, visit the Naga Heritage Complex at Kisama, and to indulge in some trekking and camping in the Dzukou Valley.
Mokokchung
Here you can get on the village trail and traverse through the villages of Longkhum, Mopongchuket, Impur – the first Christian mission centre, Ungma, Chuchuyimlang, Langpanglong and Molung. Also pay a visit to the AKM Monument, Fusen Kei and Mongzu ki caves, Longritzu Lenden Valley and Tangkum Marok Spring.
Mon
The main attractions here include the village markets, stone monoliths and the local museum in the village of Shangnyu Village, and the Veda Peak and Waterfall.
Peren
Nothing is better than a visit to villages to get a glimpse of the Naga way of life that has continued uninterrupted by external urban and commercial influences. Soak up some of it as you pass through the village of Benreu, and the Mount Pauna Tourist Village, popular for Mount Pauna and the stone carvings around it.
Longleng
This is a must visit for driving enthusiasts to partake of some off road driving adventures.