The music in your head starts unbidden, striking a decidedly Western tune on your heartstrings, as you stand on the edge of a sea of brown, gazing out to nowhere. Swirling sand rising around you and the image of a swaggering cowboy walking to that tune in your head is straight out of the wild west… and that’s when reality strikes with a hot snapping slap of dry sand. This is several thousand miles, a continent and an entire alien culture away, in the northwestern region of the Indian sub-continent in the state of Rajasthan.
Fact indeed is stranger than fiction and the desertscape of this wholly Indian state is straight out of a movie-maker’s imagination, cinematic inspiration having been embedded in every grain of sand. Welcome to Rajasthan, a hotspot for tourists, an anachronism in modern India and far removed from urban reality, yet ever so real, echoing with the passage of time.
A visit to India is incomplete without a visit to this state, popular and well-loved for its blazing colours, majestic landscape and the intimidatingly large Thar Desert. It is the place that is home to some of India’s most splendid architecture, modern cities, dry desert land, surprisingly green forests, the hump-backed camel and wildlife safaris. It is the Indian state that almost fits into the stereotypical image that tourists have of this country– and yet it is so much more. Be prepared to be dazzled – and not just by the blindingly bright sun and multi-hued chaos of colour.
Geography
India’s wild wild west is more northwesterly inclined. To the northwest of the country, Rajasthan shares its western border with Pakistan. The Indian states of Punjab, Haryana and Uttar Pradesh flank it on its north and northeast, on the east and southeast it is bordered by Uttar Pradesh (again) and Madhya Pradesh, and on the southwest by the state of Gujarat. The Tropic of Cancer passes through its southern tip. The state has an area of 132,140 square miles (342,239 square kilometres).
Located in the Thar Desert region, this state is composed of two distinct geographical regions, with the Aravalli range, the oldest mountain in the country, the dividing line. This range runs southwest to northeast, the last low ridge running all the way through to the capital city of India, New Delhi. These hills stand tall and firm against the southeast monsoon, blocking it from reaching beyond so the eastern region receives good rainfall and parts of it are covered with dense green forests.
This pre-dominantly arid land, with the dazzling brown sands of the Thar Desert and the almost-as-old-as-the-earth Aravalli range beckons tourists and visitors in droves.
Climate
Green forests, barren desert, dry summers, chilly winters, it seems as though the climate of the state is a microcosm of the country’s contradictions. Its varied topography has given Rajasthan a vastly diverse climate across its length and breadth.
In the west, which is the region where the Thar Desert lies in its silent, intimidating vastness, Rajasthan is relatively dry and infertile. In the southwestern region, the land is wetter, hillier and more fertile.
The climate varies throughout Rajasthan. Winter temperatures on an average range from 8°C to 28°C and summer temperatures range from 25°C to a scorching 46°C. The rainy season, like the rest of India, is from July through September, but the annual average rainfall also varies – the western deserts accumulate about 100 mm, while the southeastern part of the state receives 650 mm.
History
The history of Rajasthan dates back about 5,000 years ago and is the stuff of which legends are made – trife, power struggles, valiant kings, disloyalty. Tales of valour, tales of honour, tales of tragedy and tales of betrayal, this desert state is a landscape of stories untold. It is a place with an eloquent tale stored away in the sands of time, a tale that captures and enthralls all visitors.
The history of Rajasthan falls into three distinct epochs – ancient, medieval and modern. The ancient history of Rajasthan belongs to 1200 AD, when Rajasthan was a part of different dynasties, including the glorious Mauryan empire. The Dundhmer region was the first Aryan settlement and the first inhabitants of this area were the Bhil and the Mina. The earliest Rajput dynasty that emerged around 700 AD was the Gurjara Partiharas and since then Rajasthan was cited as Rajputana (the land of the Rajputs). Between the 8th–12th centuries AD, the Rajput clan rose into prominence. Multiple kingdoms and an ambition of overarching dominance led to armed conflicts among the different kingdoms, resulting in the Rajputs wiping themselves out.
The badlands of Rajasthan however, still resonate with the courage and valour of Rajput leaders. But by the 12th century, that was all that remained, when Mughal rule began in India and the major regions of Rajasthan came under the Mughal empire, with Akbar at the helm of affairs.
With the end of the Mughal regime in1707, the Marathas gained supremacy and captured Ajmer in 1775. The Maratha ascendancy ended in the late 17th century with the British colonisation in 1817-18. The British rule lasted till 1947 and nine years after India gained independence, present-day Rajasthan came into existence after the amalgamation of the princely states on November 1, 1956.
People
To an outsider looking in, Rajasthani folk are all about a quaint custom, charming traditions and friendly warmth. To an outsider, what would be apparent is the commonness of behaviours and attitudes that paint the people in one uniform shade. To an outsider, the subtle shades and diversity of smaller sub-groups and categories may come as a shock, because much like the colours of a rainbow, they coalesce to form a mass of humanity – friendly, helpful and on the whole, harmless.
Look closely though, and the different inhabitants will emerge – the Meos and the Minas (Minawati) in Alwar, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and Dholpur areas; the Banjaras – an English equivalent would be the gypsies – who are travelling tradesmen and artisans; the Gadia Lohars or ironsmiths; the Bhils, who are one of the oldest peoples in India, and inhabit the districts of Bhilwara, Chittaurgarh, Dungarpur, Banswara, Udaipur, and Sirohi, and famous for their skill in archery; the Grasia and nomadic Kathodi in the Mewar region; Sahariyas in the Kota district, and the cattle-breeding tribe of the Rabaris hailing from the Marwar. The Oswals, from Osiyan near Jodhpur, are successful traders. In the north and west, the Jat and Gujjar are among the largest agricultural communities. The Gujjars dwell in eastern Rajasthan. The nomadic Rabari or Raika are divided in two groups, the Marus, who breed camels and Chalkias, who breed sheep and goats.
The Rajputs or descendants of the class of warriors represent only a small proportion of the populace, but are the most influential section of the people in Rajasthan. They are proud of their martial reputation and of their ancestry.
Diverse people, diverse habits and customs but united by a territorial pride, the people of the state are friendly and hospitable to visitors, much like the rest of India. They are a helpful bunch on the whole, but it is advisable to be alert and keep a watch out for unsavoury elements, a precaution that is the norm across cities and states across the world.
Chances are that the people of Rajasthan have not heard of the nutritive and judicious advice given by those who know better – eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a rich man and dinner like a poor man. For in Rajasthan, even the poor take special pains in epicurean perfection and flawless creation.
Cooking in the state was a princely affair, a royal treat, a gastronomic wonder of the world. This land of princes had some of the finest cooks in the palaces. It has been said of the royal kitchens of Rajasthan that the preparation of food was raised to the level of a sublime art here. The ‘Khansamas‘ (royal cooks) who worked in the state palaces are believed to have kept their most prized recipes to themselves. Some recipes were passed on to their descendants and the rest – in a fit of uncharacteristic commercial impulse – passed on to the chef of branded hotel companies.
Princely kitchens have produced many an incomparable and exotic delicacy of shikar (game) meat. The smoked Rajasthani kebab – sule – is barebecued in a dozen different ways. At the other extreme is Maheshwari Cuisine or the vegetarian cuisine of the Maheshwars of the Marwar or Jodhpur area.
Since Rajasthani food has its roots in medieval Rajasthan when the chieftains were mainly at war, the focus was on durability and ease of eating, much like the 2-minute noodles of modern skirmishes. Food prepared depended on the items available in particular regions. Furthermore, the scarcity of water and fresh green vegetables also had some impact on their art of cooking, something that is seen to this day.
In the desert belt of Jaisalmer, Barmer and Bikaner, cooks use a minimum of water and use more milk, buttermilk and clarified butter. Mango powder replaces tomatoes, scarce in the desert, and asafetida, makes up for the absence of garlic and onions.
Rajasthani curries are a brilliant red but their look is worse than their bite – they are not as spicy as the colour would lead you to believe. Most Rajasthani cooking uses pure Ghee (clarified butter). Perhaps the best known food from here is the combination of daal (lentils) and churma bati (the bati ball is cooked wheat and cereal powder, but for the adventurous traveller, the variety is endless.
Non-vegetarians, don’t fear. Rajasthanis, despite what you may have heard or read, love their meat as well. It was mainly the men folk of the family who prepared the non-vegetarian food – notch it up as a victory for the women’s lib – or is it?
One of the creations unique to this region is the Junglee maas (game), a great royal favourite. Due to a lack of exotic ingredients in the camp kitchen, the game brought in from the hunt was simply cooked in pure ghee, salt and plenty of red chillies. However, with every cook from this day and age happily ensconced in a kitchen and with the luxury of market produce available, this dish has been adapted for kidlamb, pork or poultry.
Each region is distinguished by its popular sweet – Mawa Kachori from Jodhpur, Alwar ka Mawa, Malpuas of Pushkar, Rasogullas of Bikaner, Jaipur Ghevar. Another popular sweet dish is the lapsi, prepared with broken wheat (Dalia) sautéed in ghee and sweetened.
Like the land itself, the culture of Rajasthan is vast, varied and diverse, united by its sheer uniqueness, rich tradition and charm. The wave upon wave of settlers who came to Rajasthan shaped and moulded its cultural ethos, the fabric of its very identity that makes it such a rich haven of cultural diversity and significance. From the ancient Indus Valley urbanites to pastoral Aryan herdsmen to the Bhil forest-dwellers, merchant princes, Jat and Gujjar cultivators, Muslim craftsmen and the Rajput warrior aristocracy, all wove the tapestry of this state’s creative core.
Colourful costumes, festivals and customs break the wave of unrelieved monotony that the landscape engenders. Tourists here are as a rule, held spellbound by Rajasthan’s enviable heritage – the fairs and festivals, folk music, arts and crafts, dance and food.
Fairs and festivals are a very important part of the culture – and more often than not, they’re also just an excuse to don your best clothes and join the revelry. A religious occasion? Celebrate with a festival. Change of season? Mark it with a festival. Time for harvest? Why, let’s celebrate! In fact, celebrations occur almost round the year, which is a great opportunity for tourists visiting any time to get the full impact of blazing colour.
The culture takes on an energetic, exhilarating look with folk dance and music, an intrinsic part of the appeal of this strange and wondrous land. Rajasthan has a very vibrant, highly evolved tradition of performing arts carefully nurtured and sustained over the centuries.
And with such a rich tradition of royalty, can the land of kings be far behind in artistic pursuits? Patronage for artisans was extended by the kings and rulers who turned to them to embellish the interiors of their palaces. Workshops for artists were formed, where artists would make their creative contribution to the king – pottery, stone and wood carvings, textile and rug weaving.
Today, the major craft traditions include tie-and-dye textiles, hand-block printing, quilting, jewellery, gems and stones, blue pottery, leather craft, woodcarving, and local painting traditions.
You can get to the land of the kings in royal comfort.
By plane
Given the long distances, travelling by plane is a good option. Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur all have airports with direct links to many major cities. If you are coming from a smaller city, you have to go via Delhi.
By train
There are overnight trains from Delhi and Mumbai that are connected to most of the major cities of the state. If your destination is further out, like Jaisalmer, account for another day on the train. The Shatabdi and Rajdhani Express are excellent trains.
By road
National Highway 8 (NH8), which runs through Rajasthan is excellent and connects Delhi to Mumbai. Though Mumbai may be too far away, this is the most popular way to travel to Jaipur from Delhi as the road is beyond belief (you may actually believe it only if you see it) and the drive can easily be completed in under 4 hours. You may miss the pot-holed wonders that give you a sense of achievement when you cross the hurdles and reach your destination in one piece, so the stunningly smooth ride on NH8 may take some getting used to.
Deserts equal camels and bullock carts, overnight journeys and camping out and a great adventure of travel to impress future generations who will listen agog. Or it could mean getting to the place in comfort and then paying per hour for supervised camel rides for short stretches.
By road
All the cities have public transports in form of buses or jeeps on hire. Beware of jeep drivers who charge unrealistic amounts. There are various private travel agencies that organise trips to Rajasthan from Delhi, but they are costly. It’s better to hire a car with a driver (a car from Delhi International Airport to Neemrana Village costs Rs 4,000 for five people). There are a few government-run luxury buses to a couple of cities in Rajasthan.
If you will be relying on public transport for travelling within the state, take auto rickshaws from pre-paid kiosks wherever available. If one is not available, settle the fare before embarking on the journey. Hire taxis from approved travel agency, RTDC or through Rajasthan Tourist Reception Centres.
By train
Railways can be the better travel mode as it is quick and the service on most trains is excellent. But the road may be more enjoyable for short distances to soak up the unrivalled scenery.
If you have the inclination to meander through the state onboard a train, and your wallet’s deep enough, another option is the resplendently royal Palace on Wheels, which is a week-long luxury train ride through Rajasthan. Another luxury train recently started is the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels.
During the summers, particularly in May and June, the days are extremely hot but at nights, the temperatures dip with an apparent chill. If, however, you do like the sun beating down on you like God’s wrath, be sure to take precautions to protect yourselves from heat strokes. Use hats, sunscreen lotions, head-scarves, and wear light cotton clothes. Consume lots of fluids.
For those not used to the sun-soaked Indian summer, avoid visiting when the sun comes out to play. Visit Rajasthan in winter or the rainy season, when the climate is at its best. It is also the time when all fairs and festivals are held. The best time to travel to Rajasthan is during the winter, or cold season, which extends from December to March. January is the coolest month of the year. The weather is beautiful and idyllic. Though it is winter, the temperature remains pleasant throughout the day which is ideal to indulge in touristy fun.
The months from July to September and October to March are ideal to pay a visit to Rajasthan.
Never leave your valuables unattended during journey in train or bus or on station platforms and airports.
If you have to leave your belongings in a train, please put pad locks on them with the loops hanging from the bottom of your seats. In case of hotel rooms, use additional locks on the cupboard in the room or, if possible, on the room’s door also. It is advisable to carry a couple of padlocks and a one meter long chain with loops on its ends.
It is recommended that you keep your passport, ticket or money safely stashed in a belt pouch fastened securily around your waist.
Thieves and thugs are prevalent on routes crowded by tourists, be careful not to accept food or beverages from a friendly co-passenger. It may contain sleeping pills for possible drugging to relieve you of your baggage.
While engaging in an interesting discussion with a co-passenger, do not lose sight of your baggage as his accomplice might be taking advantage of your distraction and pilfering or stealing your baggage. Be generally alert with regard to bag pickers.
If you have hotel accommodation in mind, do not let taxi or auto rickshaw driver mislead you, as he may only be a tout for another hotel and poor bargain.
Senior citizens are treated with respect but they should select an itinerary that is comfortable considering the state of health and stamina.
Traveller’s cheques are easily replaceable by American Express or Thomas Cook as the case may be – however always keep some cash with you for emergent and unforeseen needs.
Rajasthan is a very children friendly destination. However, take care to ensure that children do not lose sight of the company, they are moving with.
It is advisable to take a good insurance policy. Keep your bills as good evidence since these may be required by the police to deal with your report.
Local police is cordial helpful. A police station or a police out post is located invariably within your reach. A police station is called a thanaand an outpost is called a ‘chowki’. Lookout for the sign below which is prominently displayed on police stations. Even patrolling Police Jeeps or Gypsy cars can be hailed in case of trouble. In all towns, for contacting the nearest police post or petrol dial 100.